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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Another Tire Question

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Dug

04-25-2005 21:56:43




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I cracked a wheel on my 2510. I found a replacement wheel the price is $125. Sounds reasonable.

The question is replacing this sucker. Is this for the timid or faint of heart? Tires are loaded and probably have not been off since original manufacture. I'm thinking about calling in the pros, but would like to save a couple of bucks. I'm thinking penetrating oil and some REALLY BIG wrenches. No heat available, don't think I would want to use it anyway as it weakens the bolts.

All suggestions welcome,

Dug

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farmered

04-26-2005 01:19:47




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 Re: Another Tire Question in reply to Dug, 04-25-2005 21:56:43  
On the 2510 you will find 5 bolt heads sticking out of the hub. Three of them are pullers that pull the wedge in to lock the wheel on the axel. With the wheel jacked off the ground rotate it so the rack on the axel is UP. Loosten the puller bolts so there is about an inch space under the heads. Then tighten the other two bolts to push the wedge out of the hub. A good smart rap on the heads of these bolts with a BFH will help to loosten them. It shouldn't be necessary to use heat. After the wedge is out, turning the pinion should walk the wheel right off the axel. The pinion can then be removed from the hub by first removing the cork (use a corkscrew) and driving the bolt out with a punch. There are no threads on this bolt, just a spline which engages the pinion. Good luck. I think the price is about right. When backing off the pusher bolts use care because they have snap rings on the inside so you can leave them loose without fear of loosing them. Use lots of PB Blaster or other good penetrant/lube. Use at least 3/4 drive sockets. A swench or big impact is also handy. Ed

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txgrn

04-26-2005 05:08:40




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 Re: Another Tire Question in reply to farmered, 04-26-2005 01:19:47  
I understand the practice is to smack the axle with the biggest sledge you can get. Smack and tighten and back and forth. Eventually the wedge (half the wedge) will break loose.

Put on a lot of penetrating oil couple of days before starting.

When finished back off the 2 bolts you used to push the wedge out and tighten the 3 you originally loosened, real tight.

Understand Deere mechanics do this procedure daily.

I had to do it on my 4230. Seems weird, but that axle and associated components are pretty rugged.

Mark

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JMS/MN

04-26-2005 13:39:36




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 Re: Another Tire Question in reply to txgrn, 04-26-2005 05:08:40  
Whacking the axle does work, but there is a better way, with no mushrooming of the axle end, and no damage to internal parts. I needed to loosen a wheel on a 4430 and came up with this: Find a pipe just slightly larger than the axle diameter, and long enough to extend beyond the axle a few inches when placed against the tapered wedge in the hub. On the far end, cut the pipe away for 1/2 it's circumference, about one inch. On the near end, weld a plate at least 1/2 inch thick. Put the pipe over the axle, so the longest portion matches up with the wedge that you want to remove. Whack the end of the pipe a few good ones and it should knock the wedge loose. Have the wheel turned so the wedge you want to loosen is on top- then whe the pipe lays on the axle, it is in the right position and no one needs to hold it. One man job.

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txgrn

04-27-2005 06:31:27




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 Re: Another Tire Question in reply to JMS/MN, 04-26-2005 13:39:36  
Now I like that; really like that. Gave me the creeps to watch people whacking my axles on my newly restored treasure.

Whomever reads this just remember all the other stuff is still necessary. All this does is keeps you from having to hit your axle with the sledge..... .but that's ok by me.

Mark



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