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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor

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Charles E. Carr

05-27-2007 08:46:26




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What is the correct placement procedure for the top adjustable link in a three point hitch for a bush hog attachment to a Ford 8N Tractor? My bush hog top connection swivels. Should the swivel connection be aimed toward the tractor, up or down? There are three connection points on the tractor also.




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Mike (WA)

05-28-2007 08:38:15




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Charles E. Carroll, 05-27-2007 08:46:26  
Don't know if you got your question answered, but I'll take a stab at it. The swivel should be set up so that it engages the mower frame when you are lifting, so you can lift the mower off the ground for transport. With it hooked in that manner, I move the 3 point arms until the the mower is level, then adjust the top link so the swivel engages the mower at that point. So from that point, if you lift the 3 point, the mower lifts off the ground; if you lower the 3 point, the front of the mower goes down. I've done a lot of mowing, and keep my right hand on the 3 point control- if the front of the tractor goes down in a hole, I push the 3 point lever forward, then pull back when the rear wheels hit the same hole. With practice, you can get a pretty even mow job even on fairly rough land.

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C. Carroll

05-28-2007 11:27:51




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Mike (WA), 05-28-2007 08:38:15  
I think I have it figured out. I first changed the position of the trailing wheel and all it did was lower the rear of the mower. Then I returned it to the position it was in when I bought the mower. Next I measured the height of the frame in the rear of the mower and set the mower to mow at that same height in the front. With all of that done the swivel seems to be at the same angle as the adjustable link. It moves up and down and does not seem to bind as before. I believe I was mowing with the front of the mower angled too far down (as I had been told to do). My property had been timbered 30 years ago or so and there are a lot of ups and downs.
I appreciate all of the replies and all of them kept me thinking.
As for removing that top link suggestion, I'm not sure that would be very safe.
Thanks to all!

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John S-B

05-27-2007 18:14:37




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Charles E. Carroll, 05-27-2007 08:46:26  
I never use a toplink with my bushhog. That way if I hit a dip it won't stress or break it. If I need to transport it down the road I'll use a piece of chain so I can lift it but it will still have the ability for the back of the mower to rise over small bumps.



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ford4roy

05-27-2007 18:37:00




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to John S-B, 05-27-2007 18:14:37  
I have thought about removing the top link on mine so that when I come over a hill (like mowing the back side of my earth dam, the shredder doesnt get pulled off the hillside by my tractor when the front end comes over the crest. The top has some sort of device that allows it to pivot to a certain extent, but not enough to keep it from becoming airborne when I reach the top of the dam.

Your thoughts?

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chuck t

05-27-2007 18:18:22




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to John S-B, 05-27-2007 18:14:37  
isn't this dangerous? if the front of the mower digs in wouldn't it flip the mower up onto the operator?



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John S-B

05-27-2007 22:03:10




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to chuck t, 05-27-2007 18:18:22  
The pto limits the distance it could travel upwards. I generally am mowing relatively flat areas with nothing much to dig into and it is heavy enough that if the front does hit it will plow grooves and not raise the rear.



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msb

05-27-2007 10:19:12




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Charles E. Carroll, 05-27-2007 08:46:26  
Its all about leverage on the sensitivity holes and tumbling action of the implement.A plow,for instance will try to tumble forward as the load becomes harder on the tractor which causes the 3 point sensing to slightly raise the plow depending on which hole the center link is in. Set in either the middle or top hole,that increases the weight on the rear tractor wheels giving the tractor more traction and less drag from the plow.The top hole responds more quickly and raises the plow more than the center hole does. Typically the center hole would be used for plowing and the top hole would more likely be used for a grader blade when you want to keep a constant load in front of the blade.The bottom hole rarely ever senses a load and should be used when depth or height of an implement is the only concern like when mowing.

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Bob

05-27-2007 11:10:19




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 msb in reply to msb, 05-27-2007 10:19:12  
The Ford "GURUS" specifically advise against using the "fragile" top hole. I certainly wouldn't tie a blade to it.



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Bob

05-27-2007 09:07:16




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Charles E. Carroll, 05-27-2007 08:46:26  
Put the swivel end forward. Use the LOWEST hole in the "rocker" on the tractor. NEVER use the upper hole. It was designed for sensing the draft of a light cultivator, and more fragile.

Draft control is NOT used for mowing, anyhow, so the lower, less-sensitive hole will NOT affect how the lift works, it's just more durable.



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C. Carroll

05-27-2007 11:35:11




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to Bob, 05-27-2007 09:07:16  
Thank you all for your replies. It seems with the setup as you recommend, the swivel on the mower swings down and the attachment pen hits the mower brace. Maybe I am reading too much into the swivel. At the tractor I have the upper arm pinned to the lower point and the adjustment link is fully retracted. That is, both ends are screwed in all the way.



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Bob

05-27-2007 11:36:58




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 Re: Top Link of three point hitch. 8n tractor in reply to C. Carroll, 05-27-2007 11:35:11  
A photo would help.



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