I might be overlooking something (That's been known to happen once or twice!) but this is what comes immediately to mind:
Pump with pulley and gasket Longer fan belt to drive the pump Thermostat and retainer clip Generator bracket arm
You *may* also need a different outlet elbow and a new gasket at the head. I don't know whether the one on the thermosiphons has a recess for the stat or the slots to catch the retainer clip that holds it in place. Those made for a thermostat also are usually tapped for a temp gauge sensor.
You might also need a longer stud or a bolt to replace the one on front of the block where your current generator arm now anchors, and maybe a couple of longer bolts, as the pump is thicker than the regular inlet to the engine. Basically, you lose the stud to mounting the pump, thus the need for a new generator bracket. With the pump on, the bracket is flat and shorter but has a hard to describe bend to it (flat, but the edges and the track for the slot for the bolt have a rounded elbow out near the middle, maybe 75*) that gives you some geometry to work with in tensioning the generator belt. It mounts to the outside bolt holding the pump to the block.
Last thought is I don't know whether your conversion would require a pressure cap for the radiator. Get one but only if the radiator will take the pressure.
Hope this helps.
That said, I'm curious, though. There's been a few threads lately asking about making the changes you talk about. If yours was one of them and I'm rehashing, I apologize.
My thinking is that about all you gain is heating your cold engine up faster while the thermostat is closed.
I recall as a kid being at the house when our little BN was out cultivating and unlike when I was on the tractor, all you heard at the house was the fan shouting, not the exhaust. I don't know how much of the engine's HP those fans eat up but they move a lot of air. When I first rebuilt the BN last year, I left the grille and hood off for a time while I worked her some. I didn't stick a thermometer in it , but I was satisfied tht the engine was up to a good running temp. I couldn't rest my hand on the top of the radiator when she got armed up, but it was no problem holding it against the bottom. The thermosiphon is a pretty efficient system, and if your block, head and radiator are all clean inside, you can see the coolant flow pretty well. Putting a pump but no thermostat in will only make the circulation faster, meaning it will take long hard run to ever warm you engine up to a good working temperature.
To my mind, adding a thermostat will actually make your engine run hotter. It's job is to hold the coolant in the engine, heating up, before releasing it. Did you ever have a thermostat go bad (stick open) in a car or pickup in the winter. The first sign is often that you can't get enough heat out of the coolant to warm the heater coil sufficiently, and your engine is running cooler than intended, because the pump is circulating and cooling the cooland faster than the engine can heat it up. So in that sense, yes, it maskes the engine run cooler, BUT in the absence of a thermostat that will close.
The other thought is that a pump and thermostat are also usually accompanied by a pressure cap. This is a further indication that the engine will run hotter, in that the purpose of a pressure cap is to allow the coolant to exceed its free-air boiling point without actually boiling. The thermosiphons were vented at the radiator neck below the cap.
Bottom line, my belief is that a water pump with thermostat will make your engine run warmer that it already is. A water pump with no thermostat will make it run cooler than the thermosiphon (up to a point) but would rarely allow the engine to get up to its proper running temp.
Again, I apologize if this is repetitive, and for the ungodly length. It does make a good project. I only question whether it will accomplish what you want it to.
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