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JD 40 Crawler track carrier questions

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George40c

06-11-2000 08:56:00




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The "clamps" which hold the cross members to the track carrier assemblies on my 40C are loose. In addition, all the cap screws which fasten the cross members to the track carrier assembly were frozen solid. In 3 cases the screws were broken off, and I broke a 4th off trying to loosen it (eazyout and drill and tap time!).

In the past, for one of the cap screws, someone has removed the screw, inserted a threaded rod, and secured the clamp with a nut. Seems like a good idea as it's much easier to free a frozen nut in this case than a frozen bolt. Any thoughts/comments about doing this all around????

The service manual also mentions that there are supposed to be "rubber bushings" between the cross member and the side frame assembly. If there were any on my crawler they are long gone, which may explain the looseness that's there now. Are these really necessary? I can't find any reference to them in the parts manual. Can I just cut some out of rubber or other substance? What should the thickness be?

I really appreciate the help.

George40c

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TonyK

06-11-2000 19:01:45




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 Re: JD 40 Crawler track carrier questions in reply to George40c, 06-11-2000 08:56:00  
Okay George.

I will guess here that you have a 4 or 5 roller machine. First, you could drill out the broken cap screws and through bolt them with longer bolts and nuts the parts manual indicates that they are 5/8" bolts. I can't see why this would not work. As for the rubber bushings they are on page 95-3 item 12 and listed as part T43E 201 YT however they are not longer avaliable from John Deere. They are a viabration issolator and are used to engage the sprocket stop blocks on the 3 roller crawler to prevent overloading of the final drives. This was not used on the 4 and 5 roller machines. I have mine apart and the thickness of the rubber is 5/8" thick the shoulders are 3/8" thick. I would imagine you could use some rubber sheeting or if you made a pattern could have them cast from elastomer rubber.


Presently I am totally restoring my 40c 3 roller and have the entire under carriage disasembled for complete O/H.
Any other questions just ask.

TonyK.

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GROWZERBAR

06-12-2000 07:11:44




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 Re: Re: JD 40 Crawler track carrier questions in reply to TonyK, 06-11-2000 19:01:45  
If I might offer a suggestion; after having removed all the broken studs, chase the threads with a tap, use at least a grade 5 bolt and coat the threads with a good thread lubricant, this makes it possible to achieve the proper torque value, and if the bolt breaks again at a latter date it will be a lot easier to remove. This is not to be confused with a thread "locking" product. I use a copper and graphite type lube and find it works excelent, doesn't harden even under manifold temperature. Just thought I would pass this along, lotsa luck, G.

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Lavoy Wilcox

06-13-2000 17:41:24




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 Re: Re: Re: JD 40 Crawler track carrier questions in reply to GROWZERBAR, 06-12-2000 07:11:44  
The rubber piece you are looking for is part# M2384T on page 95-3, item# 12 in the 40 parts book. The last ones I bought were over $30 new. Used ones are readily available, if you don't mind used I have enough to do a complete crawler. As for the track frame bolts, the best way to do it requires a torch and arc welder or wire welder. For the ones not broken off, heat the casting on the track frame that surrounds the bolt quite hot, use an impact wrench to loosen the bolt as the vibration helps to loosen it. For the broken ones, drill down through the center of the broken bolt with about a 3/8" drill bit. Take a welder and weld from the bottom of this hole up to the top of the bolt, and keep piling up the weld till you are flush with the top of the casting. Be careful not to weld the bolt to the casting. When flush, set a 5/8" nut on top of the weld and weld through the nut to weld it to the bolt. Let this cool to the touch. When cool, heat like you did for the ones not broken off, and remove with impact wrench. You will break some of the nuts off, just weld another one on and do it again. When you have them all out, blow out the holes with air and run a tap through them. When reinstalling new bolts, use anti-seize compound and you won't have this trouble again. This whole process is slow, but I have done it on numerous crawlers and your results will be great.
Lavoy

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