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JD 420c final drive seals

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Wayne Kachmar

03-11-2002 18:49:58

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As I am repairing the final drive on my 420C (late model version) I find the manuel states that a special seal tool is needed for replacing the sprocket axle seal. The photo looks like a piece of tubing with a knurl to hold. Is there a way to just machine a tube to size and does anyone have a drawing or dimensions for this. Second, is it really needed and how does it work? Usually I replace seals with a little oil on the surface to lubricate the lip and they seem fine. As to the old axle it has severe wear on the seal surface, so how critical is this step?

Thanks

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Jim

03-14-2002 21:21:06

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Re: JD 420c final drive seals in reply to Wayne Kachmar, 03-11-2002 18:49:58

for what it's worth
I encountered the same problem on my JD 440.
I have replaced the JD seal with two national seals readly avalible at any parts house.
the trick is to place the outside seal with lips facing outward and then placing another directly on top and backwards from that one faceing inward.
they, if the same as a 440, will both fit inside the recess just like the JD seal.
I have 200 hours on mine with out a complaint.
If you can find out if they have the same shaft I can look up my seal numbers.
for what it's worth

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Jim

03-23-2002 02:30:24

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Re: Re: JD 420c final drive seals in reply to Jim, 03-14-2002 21:21:06

Final bearings are Timken #
25580 & 25520 roller and race
394AS & 390A roller and race
Oil Seal is NAtional #
CR-24931
You will need two oil seals per side
install first with lips outward then place second back to back on top with lips facing inward, they will both fit in the original bore like OEM part.
I pay about $50 per side
for what it's worth
Jim

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Wayne Kachmar

03-15-2002 04:13:59

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Re: Re: JD 420c final drive seals in reply to Jim, 03-14-2002 21:21:06

Thanks for the advice on seals, I'm not sure if the seal system on the 420c is the same as the 440c. The 420c comes with one seal with three lips in one direction and a spring loaded lip in the inner direction. Perhaps I misunderstood your E-mail, is the use of two seals a Fix over the single seal or is that how the 440c is designed? I have the new single seal from JD parts. (funny they had them in stock locally). If you recommend using two seals to replace the orignal one do you have seal numbers?

Again thanks for the help and it's good to know I'm not the only one with this problem.

Wayne

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Bob Ward

03-14-2002 16:32:58

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Re: JD 420c final drive seals in reply to Wayne Kachmar, 03-11-2002 18:49:58

On the Axle condition, I had the same problem with one of my 40C axles. I took it to a machine shop here in Seattle and they "spray welded" them and turned them back down to the correct deminsion. Cost was $150.

Another person with an MC axle, had the seal area built back up by chrome plating them. Cost was about $200.

The 40C has the same seal as the 420. I tried a number of ways to install it. I was going to
make a tool but I could not find any tubing close to the deminsions needed to slip over the axle. I ended up wrapping some shim stock
around the axle and tinkering with it until I had the seal installed. The issue is to get the multiple lips of the seal pointed in the
correct direction.

JD definition of a seal: "Somthing that will
trap the sand and wear the axle so we can sell
more parts."

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Wayne Kachmar

03-15-2002 04:25:40

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Re: Re: JD 420c final drive seals in reply to Bob Ward, 03-14-2002 16:32:58

Thanks for the information on using shim stock for adjusting the lips of the seal. Since the seal is in the axel carrier is there any way to tell if the outer lips are facing in the right direction? I normally use a little oil or grease to facilitate moving the seal on the shaft. With the concern about sand and other foreign material should I use something else or nothing to slide the seal on? Or is that the reason for the special tool? Thanks for the help.

Wayne

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