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D3B WIDE TRACKS

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CAMPRO

03-12-2002 14:59:41




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I have a 1983 D3B with the wide tracks (25") and wide blade. Has anybody ever cut the tracks down to the standard size and how did you do it? Also if I do this there will be a much larger space between the inside edge of the track and the machine casing. Will this be a problem?




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Bob /Ont.

03-12-2002 16:23:14




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 Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to CAMPRO, 03-12-2002 14:59:41  
Hi Campro.You could do but I wouldn't recomend it.
If the shoes are fine as they must be if you are going to cut them down. The wide shoes are for lower groung pressure, the track gage is wider to accomidate them and the blade is wider to cut as wide as the tracks, they all go togather.
And yes the yokes should be the same (Idler yoke)
but check what you have against what you get.
How did the clutches go?Bob

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CAMPRO

03-12-2002 16:26:26




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 Re: Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to Bob /Ont., 03-12-2002 16:23:14  
Got both clutches out. Both have been recently rebuilt, but the throw out bearing on one is completely shot. Getting it replaced. I did not need to take anything off to get the clutches out. Thanks for your help



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Bob /Ont.

03-12-2002 19:58:19




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 Re: Re: Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to CAMPRO, 03-12-2002 16:26:26  
Campro. Been away a lot today hope your still on the board. Meant to ask what is wrong with your yoke, might be fixable? Also where the teeth on the steering clutch discs 1/4" wide and made of fiber(dry type) or 1/8" wide and made of steel(oil type)? When you get them back in I'll say more.
Your realy going over that 3.Bob



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CAMPRO

03-13-2002 06:40:42




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to Bob /Ont., 03-12-2002 19:58:19  
My clutches are 1/4" fiber by 1/16" steel and I am pretty sure they are the dry type. The yoke was broken and rewelded on the machine, however, the weld made the yoke crooked so that when you tension the chain, the tension pulles the idler to one side real bad. I am think of pulling the yoke out and rewelding a new sleeve on the previous break to straighten. How do you get the yoke out?



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Bob /Ont.

03-13-2002 08:02:52




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to CAMPRO, 03-13-2002 06:40:42  
Campro the best way is to split the track, unbolt it from the idler, slide the idler forward then pull the yoke and rod out. I am assumeing that the weld was on the rod. If so the best thing is to get a machine shop to make a new rod and weld it to the yoke, we do this all the time when the rod surface gets dammaged in the track adjuster seal area. Put some new seals in the adjuster if you are there, just in case. Better you stay with the shoes as they are you need the traction for that wider blade. You have dry clutches. If you haven't already change the final drive oil, make sure they are full and not leaking before you start, check the oil that comes out. A metal paste like never sieze is normal metal chips are not. When you put the clutches back in I have some thing to say then.
Later Bob

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CAMPRO

03-13-2002 12:15:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B WIDE TRACKS in reply to Bob /Ont., 03-13-2002 08:02:52  
Bob, I pulled the plugs on the final drives and the oil looks OK. No metal chips on the magnetic plug. What is the correct oil to put back in SAE 30 or 50 or 90?



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