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D3B TRANY GASKET

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CAMPRO

03-21-2002 10:22:51




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I have a 1983 D3B and I drain the transmission oil and took out the magentic filter on the bottom of the transmission. There seems to be no gasket listed in the parts manual and there was no gasket on the machine where the magnetic filter bolts back on to the transmission. The machine is now leaking trany oil from this spot. Is there supposed to be a gasket or do I need to just torque the bolts tighter?

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Bob /Ont.

03-21-2002 10:37:47




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 Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to CAMPRO, 03-21-2002 10:22:51  
Hi Campro, get a clean pan, so you can save the new oil. There is an Oring in the large plate, likely heated so much over time that it looks like part of the cover. You need the oil out to change it, guess you know that anyway.
How is everything else going with it?
later Bob



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CAMPRO

03-21-2002 13:12:21




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 Re: Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to Bob /Ont., 03-21-2002 10:37:47  
Thanks for the info. Just pulled the front idler and bent yoke assembly out. The yoke was welded to fix something right at the point where it forks to the idler. Now it was either welded bent or bent from use. My concern is that the steel will have weakened from welding that it will not be strong enough when I get it fixed and straightened to hand the pressure. What are your thoughts?



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Bob /Ont.

03-21-2002 14:54:02




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 Re: Re: Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to CAMPRO, 03-21-2002 13:12:21  
Hi Campro. Think I read once you have a machine shop, if so you'r in buisness. We have the rods replaced all the time. I think the rod enters the yoke and is then welded, yoke should be okay.
Look it over for cracks though, there made of good stuff. This dammage likely came from the idler bouncing up and down. Look in from the end of the track frame and see a triangular bar on each side of the track frame, this should be built up. If it has a wear strip 1/4" replace that, if not it's weld and grind. Check the shaft and bushing of the idler, if good weld and grind the idler bearing blocks where they ride on the bars. You could easily make a gauge to work from.
Shoot for 1/8" clearance in this area. Also at this time take a pry bar and check all of the track rollers for loose centers. If you find any but they arn't completely destroyed, try to get them re bushed/shafted. One new roller will get run hard at first because it is larger dia., this varys with % left on UC.
My thoughts.Bob

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CAMPRO

03-21-2002 17:52:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to Bob /Ont., 03-21-2002 14:54:02  
We had two loose center on the the idlers and so we took them apart. The shafts and the bearings are completely shot. The parts seem to run around $200, however, a whole new idler is only $200. Could this be correct? How do you check the front idler to see if the bearing is good? Also the track seems to rub on they c-frame on the left side only. The rails seem to be straight and evenly space. Either the c-frame needs adjusting or the idler was pulling to the inside? We originally thought the bent yoke was causing the problem, but now we are not sure. Any thoughts about adjusting?

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Bob /Ont.

03-21-2002 18:51:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to CAMPRO, 03-21-2002 17:52:04  
Hi Campro seems low but I don't know prices too well. Dealers (cat & aftermarket) exchange rollers and idlers. Rollers get new shells and seal, maybe bearings, Idlers get the tread area welded up, new seals, other parts as needed.
If you take the idlers in somewhere get the tread area welded up if needed, they can measure for you. The measure from the centre flange(band) down to the tread area, then use a chart for %.
On the machine with the track on, put a crowbar between the idler and the track frame, pry and look for wobbel (idler/bearing block),some side to side is normal.
Check out what John says below too.
Talk later Bob

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John C.

03-21-2002 18:08:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D3B TRANY GASKET in reply to CAMPRO, 03-21-2002 17:52:04  
Campro,
It is more than likely where boss the "C" frame mounts to is worn completely out and letting the C frame move side to side when you are pushing a load. The bosses were in the form of a bolt on eye that went through the cross bar.

As far as the idler goes I would just replace it. Make sure you build up the worn areas inside the track frame and reshim it properly so it is free to move back and forth but very little up and down.

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