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Grading question

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Jeff

04-16-2002 17:06:40

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��The only dozer I've ever used to grade had a 6-way blade so if I was cutting a road into the side of a hill and the dozer was leaning with the hill I just used the tilt feature to level the blade and started cutting but I'm wondering how you would go about getting a level cut if the dozer doesn't have a tilt feature?

Thanks, Jeff

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Daryl Zullo

12-24-2003 13:15:49

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Working with a straight up and down blade. First cut a pass( slot )the length needed. Then return to the beginning and lean the machine by placing one track in your cut and the other on the downhill side of the slope. This will help start making level cuts.

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Dave 2N

04-20-2002 09:11:53

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Lots of roads have been made with just a straight dozer. If you ever happen to go through Southwestern NYS or Northwestern PA, you'll notice logging roads and oil lease roads all over those hills, some of the hills pretty steep too. Those roads were done a long time ago. I remember going with my Dad back in the late 40's and early 50's when he supervised a logging crew; they used an International TD-14 to cut those roads for skidding logs out with TD-6's and TD-9's. They also had to put a fairly good road into the woods where they could load the logs at the skidway. No angle blades or steering assists back then; those operators had arms that would make a health club nut envious.

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04-19-2002 15:55:19

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

If the hill slopes to your right angle the blade right (left end ahead, right end behind) and start cutting at the bottom of grade. The leading edge will cut first and sweep the material back and right to keep right track up, just don't go too far with each cut. Works fine after you get on to it.

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bob

04-18-2002 23:42:14

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

push straight downhill, backing up & pushing out til you work out a level spot, then spin at a right angle & push from your newly leveled spot

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Terry O

04-17-2002 18:07:01

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Jeff:

I'm no operator so I can't answer your question with any authority, however I have checked a book out at our library that is an operating engineer's bible. Can't remember the name of it, but it's about 4 inches thick, and has every facet of dirt working, civil engineering, land clearing, lake building, etc. etc., that anyone would ever need. Check at your library for it, or perhaps local college if they offer civil engineering classes. By the way I remember an illustration in the book that details exactly what you asked. Hope that helps.

Terry O
Saint Charles, Missouri

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Dave Baumann

04-18-2002 17:39:19

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Re: Re: Grading question in reply to Terry O, 04-17-2002 18:07:01

Terry, Could you be thinking of the Book called "Moving The Earth" by Nichols & Day? As a farmer/ operator{wantaby} I bought the book for referance and to learn the correct way and safe way to run Dozers and Scrapers. A VERY good book!
GOOD Luck!! Dave

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Terry O

04-18-2002 17:49:26

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Re: Re: Re: Grading question in reply to Dave Baumann, 04-18-2002 17:39:19

Hi Dave:

That's it. Excellent book, somewhat dated but as relevant today as the day it was published. I need to get back down to our library and check it out again. Thanks for the help Dave, have a good one.

Terry O.

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Dave Grubb

04-19-2002 11:05:19

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Grading question in reply to Terry O, 04-18-2002 17:49:26

There are four of those books for bid on ebay.

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Grozerbar

04-17-2002 08:53:14

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Good points, never had the luxury of a lilt dozer either and spent twenty two years in the seat! We used the standard angle dozer, manual, with screw type tilt struts, when sidecutting we tipped the 'dozer a couple inches down on the "long" corner, to help keep level, then move the material ahead and out, in short passes. With a little practice, it doesn't take long to cut a decent "trail", when "roughed" in, a few "grading" passes will produce an excelent driving surface. Never did hold too much to back blading, that is for beginners and coverup artists.";^)! Have cut roads in some dang steep hills, the cut on the inside, up to and over eight feet high and a driving width no more than a twelve foot dozer width! Have had to navigate rock outcroppings with barely enough room for the crawler, and tipped the wrong way.....always carried an extra pair of shorts..... don't think I could do that anymore, have a gooder, R.E.L.

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VaTom

04-16-2002 18:30:29

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Never having had the luxury of a dozer for cutting in roads across a hill, I use my loader bucket to level out a pad for the tractor to sit on. Then it's just a matter of keeping the cut so the tractor stays level. Not very difficult. Steepest slope so far was about 65%. Pretty interesting when the fill slips and your tractor is suddenly sitting at an angle you most certainly didn't have in mind.

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Mike W

04-16-2002 17:21:17

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Re: Grading question in reply to Jeff, 04-16-2002 17:06:40

Well when,,,you get off the transport your on level ground,,,you have a bulldozer under you,,,,just keep it that way. Thats one solution,,,the other is to use your berm or windrow of dirt to run one track up on and tilt your machine.,,,,Mike

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right said fred

04-16-2002 22:49:00

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Re: Re: Grading question in reply to Mike W, 04-16-2002 17:21:17

Alot of roads have been cut with a straight dozer--it just takes longer. Watch your angles and backdrag to keep things level.

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