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Crawler trailer/moveing this thing

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Larry Metzgar

12-15-2002 08:27:55




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I recently bought a trailer for my JD 350 crawler. It has a double axle, electric brakes and is 16 feet long. It has a GVW adaquate to haul this but heres my questions. 1) It didnt come with a beaver tail or dove tail. Is this important.
2) I dont have ramps for this trailer yet. Should I have them made at a welding shop or buy them somewhere.
3) When putting on the dozer should I back on or drive straight up. I have clearence over the fenders I believe.
4) Should I have some sort of blocks under the trailer when putting on the dozer to relieve the upward lift on the front hitch.Or is this compensated by the dual axles.
I dont plan on going far with this crawler, maybe ten miles max from one farm to another. I appreciate the help.

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Dave Grubb

12-16-2002 05:46:36




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 Re: Crawler trailer/moveing this thing in reply to Larry Metzgar, 12-15-2002 08:27:55  
You didn't say if you have a wood or steel deck. If it is steel be VERY careful, they are extremely slippery. If is is wood be careful if it is wet.
I would recommend that you block under the rear frame when loading or unloading. On a light utility trailer you will end up putting a lot of load on the end of the trailer since they tend to have the axles nearly centered.
As for ramps, if you use steel make sure they are open ladder type ramps. Good wood planks work well. If you do that use something like full 2" oak and bolt cleats on one end to lock into something on the trailer, you may need to weld an angle on to do that.
Without a beaver tail blocks may not give you enough height to get on without a good bank to get into.
As for forward or backward it is your choice. You may find that for balance one works better than the other if you are going up against a bulk head.

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Jerry G

12-16-2002 15:52:37




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 Re: Re: Crawler trailer/moveing this thing in reply to Dave Grubb, 12-16-2002 05:46:36  
My suggestions may cost you a few bucks, but bucks worth spending for safety, and stability.
Put wind down stablizer jacks on each of trailer rear corners, they come ready made for these type of applications. They simply wind down to ground level and pivot out of way when underway. You can find them in Northern Hydrulics catalog, or any trailer place.
Second, have open steel ramps made, hinged to your traler, roughly three feet long, but longer the better (heavier however).
This way you have stability, and you can fold them back onto trailer. A good welder should know how to make fold-back ramps out of angle iron. I have them on my low-boy and I've loaded some heavy stuff, track and rubber tractors.
They take a little muscle to fold back but well worth it. I've seen them in aluminum and steel.
Don't take any shortcuts, if you do you can tweak your trailer or slide to either side if not prepared. Blocks and the dirt banks are good for a one time thing, but it get's real old, plus you just can't load and go anytime, and off load.
Good luck
Jerry G.

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Larry Metzgar

12-17-2002 13:38:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Crawler trailer/moveing this thing in reply to Jerry G, 12-16-2002 15:52:37  
Thanks guys for all the help. The bed is wood and its a heavy duty trailer I just dont want to take any chances on a upset.



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donm

12-27-2002 15:48:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Crawler trailer/moveing this thing in reply to Larry Metzgar, 12-17-2002 13:38:26  
I would bolta good 4x4 on the deck just widere than the trax. Wood deck islike glass when steel trax hit it. There is nothing to keep it from sliding sideways and over she goes. Get an overhead roll bar and seat belt and use it. I lost one over the side if a truck once. Cant be too careful. You only get one chance



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Pete/Maine

12-16-2002 03:02:33




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 Re: Crawler trailer/moveing this thing in reply to Larry Metzgar, 12-15-2002 08:27:55  
I back into a bank and lay down a few pieces of 6X6 blocking.



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