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Hi, Roy. Great little tractor. I have fond memories of running one on the family farm while I was still going to high school. There are still a few running here in DownUnder too. Check the track frames to see they are not twisted. Lay a straight edge across the rails at front and back and look along them to detect any twist. Check front idler mounts and the rails where the mounts run for wear and rebuild/replace as necessary. Check all the bearings and bearing surfaces on your track frame pivots and pivot shaft. Also check that this shaft is straight. Any wear or misalignment here will directly affect your track alignment. You have twin-screw track adjustment on that little jigger. Make sure as close as possible when you adjust the tracks that you have done it evenly. Check by measuring from the track frame pivot forward to the idler shaft on the inside and outside of each track frame. Otherwise your idler may be running out of line with your track frame which will increase your track wear exponentially. Also, put plenty of CopperKote or similar anti-sieze compound on the threads of the adjusting bolts and make sure the locking clamp bolts are done up tight when you're finished. (Stockholm tar also seems to work well in that sort of situation, both as an anti-sieze and a mild Loctite.) Track guiding guards were, I think, an optional extra with the 22's but worth having as they helped stopped the track chain coming out from under the bottom track rollers. If these guides are hard to obtain around your part of the world, they can be made up from good quality 3/8 or 1/2 inch steel plate. (Unless you're a restorer, in which case you will want the genuine article, won't you?) If you do have a track come out from under its rollers, you will know about it as the tractor will ride very rough, grate and grind and generally complain. One cure is to simply travel in the opposite direction until the track goes back to its right and proper place. Another cure is to put a fairly substantial block either in front of or behind the track and drive up onto it. Correct track chain tension is also helpful in preventing this. All the 22's I have seen were gas/kero with a small round gas tank built into the main kero tank. A new bottom is probably the best bet but, unless you really know what you are doing, it may be a good idea to let the experts do the welding. Gas and kero tanks have this un-nerving habit of going "BANG" when exposed to naked flames, sometimes even when supposedly 'dry' for long periods. I'm told this is NOT a pleasant experience. I have welded up a damaged car gas tank with an oxy/acetylene welder by running the exhaust of another car through it via a length of bicycle tube while welding. This supposedly removes the oxygen necessary for the 'Big Bang'. You DOO NEEEDD to have the bottom plug OUT of the tank so that you get some flow-through of the exhaust gases -- as in if there is no bottom plug to take out, I would NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT 'cos there is no-where for the incoming exhaust gases to push ALL the gas/kero fumes out. I also have to tell you that I never stopped wishing for a full bomb disposal suit through the entire operation. Hope this helps. You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
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