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Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips?

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Alex

03-05-2003 17:20:27




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Ok, so I've purchased this '76 Ford 550 backhoe and I am hoping all on this board tell me everything you know about safe operation of one of these things. I'm just starting out my business on this small BC gulf island, and I'd like to come home at the end of each day in one piece (my wife and kids would appreciate it, too). Some things I'm already careful about because I own a skidsteer loader (Thomas T-133) and have had just enough little scares to smarten me up to a degree, but if there are any special safety considerations to know concerning backhoes, I'd like to know them.

Alex

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LumbrJakMan

03-06-2003 15:41:39




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 Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 17:20:27  
I also agree . Graveyards are full of "Heros" I have recently started using my seat belt after a rather simple way of explaining there use . Imagine finding your favorite brick or stone wall . Now go back 30 feet and take off full steam ahead at the wall .If your Carl Lewis you may reach around 23 MPH . Just before you hit the wall , put your hands up to stop yourself . Now imagine a 4000LB vehicle coming in your direction and trying to stop . Just makes sense to me now to wear it .

Also my best tip to share is when dragging anything behind your Tractor , Loader , 4 wheeler . Make sure it is high enough at your hitch, to clear any stumps, mounds , or the like . If it binds up as you drive along , and you are paying attention to your driving , the next thing you may see is the SKY when the front end comes up . Very Very good lesson learned this way many a time I am sure !! Slow and Steady will get ya to the supper table every night !!

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Alex

03-05-2003 23:50:59




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 Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 17:20:27  
Thanks everyone for all the safety information regarding ROPS, Belts and supporting loader arms while working on the engine -- I'm going to keep learning as much as I can about this thing from anyone who'll talk.

I've posted a photo of my machine in the "Today's Tractors" section of YTMAG, for anyone's interest to see what this ole piece of iron looks like. I'm getting rather fond of my machine in the last couple of days, perhaps you could say I'm bonding with it...Is that normal??

Alex

Photo at:
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/today/photo_view.cgi

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John Penney

03-09-2003 20:30:54




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 Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 23:50:59  
Alex , another very importent safety issue is underground utilites . A cut gas line , power line, or fiber-optic can sure take the days profit too.



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Mark NM

03-05-2003 23:07:38




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 Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 17:20:27  
I'm a safety professional that has operated numerous farm tractors and backhoes with front loaders, large all-terrain forklifts, graders, dump trucks, skid loaders, mining equipment, etc. I have investigated numerous fatal 'accidents' involving heavy equipment, some of which has easily exceeded 50 tons. This has included some instances where hydraulic valves jammed and caused backhoes or loaders to move to full travel, ultimately flipping the tractor or leading to a loss of control or some other serious problem. I have also designed and built roll cages and seat/seat belt setups for everything from sprint cars to forklifts and antique tractors.

Since most backhoes are mounted on tractors with front loaders, it is important to have a strong 4-post ROPS with at minimum a heavy expanded steel mesh 'roof', or much better a solid steel roof. This will prevent a load from falling out of the front bucket onto the operator. The ROPS should be built and installed to exceed minimum safety standards. Some cabs that offer weather protection are not designed as a ROPS frame. This is not the place for light-gage materials or amateur welding.

It is absolutely critical to have both a working seat belt and seat combination to prevent ejection. Chewed up/greasy/dirty belt webbing and rusted/dirty belt buckles and retractors are all big trouble. Lap belts must be snug. Avoid slack belts, they will allow greatly increased head and torso excursion in a rollover. If the tractor has a vertically-articulating seat, make sure the tether belts are tight when the seat is in its upper range of travel. Very few seats are strong enough to withstand belt loads, so make sure belts are properly anchored with strong hardware. Lap belts in cars must withstand 5000 pound minimum static load. Seats unfortunately only have to withstand less than 300 pounds static load. Contaminated, cut/abraded belts can be dangerously weak. Same goes for webbing and plastic hardware exposed to excessive sunlight. NAPA sells a lap belt with an Automatic Locking Retractor and all hardware for less than $50. Many salvage-yard automotive belts can also be adapted for very little money. Just make sure they were not worn in a significant crash.

The seat belt is no better than the seat it is matched with.

Never use a backhoe without using stabilizers first, plus downforce on front bucket. Some older backhoes will allow seated operator feet to get pinched, and they are all great for trapping hands and other body parts. Never operate the hoe or front loader while standing beside the tractor, and never try to operate the hoe while facing forward, or the loader while facing rearward. Never allow anyone to stand within the operating range of the hoe. They can slap sideways faster than a person can move out of the way. For the same reason, never let anyone stand under or ride in the loader.

Some ROPS do not account for the operator in a separate or rearward-positioned backhoe seat.

Take the time to watch an experienced operator that actually follows safety rules, working in the field. Unfortunately, such folks are hard to find because most act like safety equipment is for sissies. The seat belt actually helps one to be more efficient and to incur less fatigue because it keeps the operator securely in the seat instead of bouncing around. It takes extra muscle action to resist that bouncing and to try to keep oneself in the seat otherwise.

Fact is, most tractor rollovers and other injury-producing incidents occur in 3/4 second or less, which is faster than human perception/reaction time. Just about the time you realize you have a serious problem, you get slammed into the ground, etc. There is almost never time to jump clear.

In automobile crashes, one is vastly more likely to get killed or seriously injured if ejected from the vehicle, and the same principle applies to tractor rollovers. The ROPS can only do its job if the operator is restrained within that controlled environment which supplies adequate "survival space." The seat belt and seat and ROPS must work together as a system, and if any one of those fail, all bets are off.

Older non-ROPS tractors may have ROPS available as kits from manufacturers. They are supposed to sell them at cost but good luck finding one. I have seen decent shop-built ROPS made with minimum 2- 3/8" or 2-7/8" OD heavy wall (3/16" or heavier) steel drill pipe, using lots of gussets and heavy mounting plates and multiple 3/4" dia. or bigger bolts with heavy washers. 3/16" is the minimum tubing wall thickness for these applications. The 2-3/8 drill pipe fits neatly inside the 2-7/8 pipe, by the way. Makes for great joints. Similar efforts can be made with heavy square tubing.

Bolts should be minimum SAE Grade 5. Large U-Bolts that encircle the rear axle, and/or multiple pass-thru bolt plates above and below to clamp the axle are best. 1/2" or heavier plates are needed. Again, this is absolutely not a place for an amateur welder. This heavy stuff requires high amperage and someone who understands proper weld penetration of thick materials. Check out a 4-post ROPS on a modern construction-grade backhoe, take measurements and photos, including head clearance above seat.

Do not rely on tapped blind holes in the axle housing normally used to secure fender mounts. The bolt sizes used are normally inadequate for anything more than fenders. Take a look at how a competent race car builder installs a full roll cage in a race car. They bolt it to the frame using large U bolts and backing plates. Such a roll cage builder may be willing to build a ROPS using the heavier gage materials.

Why the need for such heavy ROPS materials? Typical passenger cars weigh well under 5000 pounds, while even a relatively small tractor with loader and backhoe can weigh in at triple that much. Decide if you would like a cage that will absolutely keep all that weight off of you in a dynamic rollover event.

Make sure there is at least 42" of minimum head clearance between the ROPS and the seat when it is in its highest position. That is the only way to insure adequate headroom. Colorado State University Ag department website has videos of ROPS in action in rollover tests. ALso lots of info at Marshfield Clinic in Wisconsin.

Sorry for the long response, but you have lots of safety issues to consider. Hope this helps.

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bluwrench

03-05-2003 18:54:34




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 Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 17:20:27  
Talk to the dealer to see if there is a fabricated link that attaches to the lift cylinder rod and prevents the rod from retracting there by holding the arms up. I have a John Deere 410, What I do is tip the bucket to the full dump position and then set it on a very heavy metal saw horse which,is built out of heavy pipe. The saw horse is turned cross ways to the Bucket. WORK SAFELY



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Taylor Marret

03-05-2003 17:41:25




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 Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 17:20:27  
If the hoe has a rops use the seat belt. If it does not get one then use the seat belt. If you use the hoe very long you will end up in places you shouldn't. Use common sense like, don't swing the boom fast with a big load of muck you just dug out of the ditch you are cleaning out after 10 inches of rain. Drive slow not fast, carry your load low as possible etc.



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Dave Grubb

03-05-2003 17:46:04




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 Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Taylor Marret, 03-05-2003 17:41:25  
Good advice above--and I will add one more---be real careful with a load in the bucket going DOWN hill--you can end up going for a ride a lot faster than you were planning on--wet grass can really send you off to the races.



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Alex

03-05-2003 18:02:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Dave Grubb, 03-05-2003 17:46:04  
Belts is an excellent suggestion. While some guys find it very macho to hop in the machine and go to work without securing yourself, I've read about quite a few accidents where the operator was ejected and actually killed by being pinned between the ROPS and the ground. The internet is a great source of gory details of such accidents, enough to scare me into buckling up. Fortunately my backhoe has a good working belt to go with the rops. Seeing how much most rubber-tired constuction machines bounce around and how poor they are at steering at higher speeds, it is shocking how many people don't wear belts. I always wear a belt, both in my skidsteer and now in the backhoe. I noticed when I bought the skidsteer I had to dig around for the belt under the tilting seat and once it was loose I had to oil the belt latching mechanism because it was rusted and stiff. Evidently nobody had ever bothered to use it.

Keep those suggestions on safety coming!

I would like some advice on keeping the loader arms up when working on the engine; I can't get at the side of my little 3-cyl diesel without lifting the arms. What do people usually use to secure them from falling down? I've seen some built in devices on newer machines, but this has nothing. Should I get something custom welded that I could stick in there?

Alex

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Alex

03-05-2003 19:21:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 18:02:58  
Get some 3 inch pipe cut it longways same lenth put it in there! goodluck



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Alex1

03-05-2003 21:20:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex, 03-05-2003 19:21:53  
Thanks for the idea, Alex2! Does the split pipe go right on the shaft of the hydraulic piston (ram?). How do you stop it from sliding over and dropping off?

Alex1



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KX

03-06-2003 09:30:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 550 Backhoe safety tips? in reply to Alex1, 03-05-2003 21:20:19  
You can fabricate wedges that weld to the end of the pipe that will cause the edge of the cylinder to rest there securely. Whatever the size of your cylinder should determine the cut out on the wedge. Then lay it on top of the cylinder shaft and with the engine off, release pressure on the cylinder to tighten the pipe and wedges in place. It won't fall off.



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