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Backhoe basics

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dave

03-28-2003 03:43:42




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What are your recommendations for a used backhoe (brand, model, etc). Anything I should look for and/or stay away from? After 10 years with a 1952 Ford NAA w/ bucket and backhoe I need something more reliable, powerful and larger. Thanks for any help.




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Illini Case

03-30-2003 06:57:17




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
Don't know where you are located but I know of a 1 owner 580C with 3000 hrs., it has a Sims soft cab with glass front on the rops, new pins and bushings in the swing tower. The gentleman is asking $12,500. It is an all original machine, standard hoe, good tires.



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Illini Case

03-30-2003 06:49:34




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
For the money, the best all around hoe (my humble opinion) is the Case 580C. Needs little work, easy to work on when needed, plenty of used parts are available for these machines. A nice one would cost upwardds of $12,000. Expect to pay around $9,000 for one that may not be in the greatest shape.



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farmer jones

03-29-2003 20:52:49




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
I vote for a 310d john deere but I like deeres. Case makes a good hoe. I would never buy either one without 4 wheel drive. Good luck



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Max

03-28-2003 20:01:41




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
Like the previous two post, I would also vote for the 580C or 580D. The super D's were silky smooth but I haven't seen to many out there lately. I liked the D model the best if you want the cab, the back window was a two piece setup and if it was to drop, it didn't hurt as much due to less weight. The 680 series are nice if you want an excavator on wheels but it starts getting a little complicated with its air pressurized hydraulics. Also, as much as I hate to admit, I always suspected that there might be a problem with this series for they were on the H model while the 580 was just going to the D. The 780 was a really big unit with some serious digging power and horsepower. The only problem I ran across on the early models was that the stabilizer reliefs were on the stabilizer cylinders and made a mess when they went over relief. If you plan on roading the unit, the 580 wins hands down. If you really want to smooth out the ride though on the 580 with a standard hoe, add the 600 lb extendahoe counterweight to the front end. The store manager at the dealership that worked at always had the 580C/D's set up this way. I thought it was kind of a waste until I took one home due to a snowstorm, it really tamed the 'rocking horse' ride.

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dave van vorst

03-30-2003 04:10:38




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 Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to Max, 03-28-2003 20:01:41  
In reference to my question on the backhoe basics: do they make a case 580 c/d in 4wd? how do I tell? Is the c/d designation on every years models or does it apply to a specific year. What price range is reasonable for these models? How can you tell the condition of the rear bushings and the hydaulics (and anything else you recommend I check before I buy). What are a reasonable amount of hours on a unit before I should be concerned. Thanks for all your help.

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Max

03-30-2003 08:39:02




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 Re: Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave van vorst, 03-30-2003 04:10:38  
Te D was the first factory 4wd. There were some hyd drive kits made for earlier models. I seen a 580C once with duals in the front and rear, they used it for laying tile.



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Frank Falen

03-29-2003 06:25:09




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 Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to Max, 03-28-2003 20:01:41  
If I look at the Case 580 series, what should the cut off be in terms of age? Also, I am going to look at a Case 680L 4wd 1992. Assuming it is in good to fair condition, what price range should I anticipate?



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Max

03-29-2003 07:14:45




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 Re: Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to Frank Falen, 03-29-2003 06:25:09  
As far as the age cutoff for the 580 series, it would depend on how you plan on using it. If you plan on earning a living with it, I wouldn't go any older than a E model. As for an occasional use, a C model in good condition should be fine.
The 690L was a much better unit than the earlier one that I mentioned but as far as price goes, I would hate to speculate without the touchy feely thing. The best adice is, if you feel comfortable with the unit after digging and operating it, thought about it over night, and still think its an affordable machine, then its probably a good deal. If the unit sells before you make a decision, oh well it wasn't meant to be and there will be aonther one that will come along and might be in better condition.

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mikeinmo

03-28-2003 11:13:52




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
I am partial to Case machines like Jeff. If you go with a Case the 580C and later machines are much easier to work on when the time comes. They have a componentized power train. You can remove each part seperately for service. Older machines such as 580 and 580B have to be split like a farm tractor for service. This isn't too bad on a farm tractor but on a backhoe you have the loader/backhoe frame and the ROPS structure to contend with. I started with a 580B and traded up to a 580 Super E. Both are good machines. Any Case in the 580 series is a good machine in my opinion just some are more mechanic friendly. The 680 and 780 series well..... .... Good Luck and have fun finding a hoe!

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Jeff

03-28-2003 07:21:55




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 Re: backhoe basics in reply to dave, 03-28-2003 03:43:42  
Most anything in the Case 580 series should do you nicely I'd imagine.

I've a Case 580c, and only thing I'd wish for
is 4wd.



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Frank Falen

03-29-2003 06:16:53




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 Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to Jeff , 03-28-2003 07:21:55  
I would like to buy a backhoe. I intend to go look at a Case 680L 4WD Extendahoe 1992. What do you think of this modil?



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Jeff

03-29-2003 12:03:53




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 Re: Re: Re: backhoe basics in reply to Frank Falen, 03-29-2003 06:16:53  
Not familiar with the 680's, did you mean 580L.

Nice model, w/extendahoe is better.

What kind of hours on the hoe?

Also keep in mind 4wd adds appx 2k pounds
of additional weight.

Biggest thing to check is the hydraulics,
and the rear bushings.



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