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Sorry to say, no you will have to take the sprocket off. You will still have to disconnect it the steering brakes and lift that out of there and then get the end plate removed. You will want to do that if the bearings shelled you will have metal in the oil and you will want to get it out of the bearings ect and check to make sure that you have no others going bad. They tend to work in a ripple effect at times. On the cover. there should be some jack srews that should allow you to work that out of there. They can be tight and will take some work to get out of there. If not once you get the Steering clutch removed you can then work from inside to outside to drive that out of there. Be careful not to ruin the end. On those there were a set of taper bearings. When you refit the bearings, which are a common size availabe at most bearing shops. You should check the bearing preload. The only way to do that is to get the intermediate pinion gear out of the way which means removal of the shaft and other parts. The reason for checking the preload is the bearing is too loose you will virtually shoot the pinion shaft out the other end and if too tigh you will grind the bearings down in a short while. On those they use metal shims of varing thinknesses .002, 4, 7, ect. Clean up what you have and polish them down. This will make sure you get a good seal and accurate reading. Use a punch to mark top side and make sure you get the mark on the shims. this will save you a lot of time in assembly because the holes are not uniformly placed. Also tie then all together that way you will not lose any. You may want to consider getting a few new ones of very small size to make sure all the preloads are right. Reason for doing this is the bearing vary in size every so slightly between them. I have put bearings in those machines that with the shimms in there they were so tight you could not move them but yet in the old one they were loose. I have had the opposite happen to. So I have gotten in the habit of haveing spare shims around so that I do not get into trouble and slow the process down. On the seal ring do not scratch the surface. I would reglue the boot ect and clean that up. If they are cracked in anyway they replacements are still available. On the Ourboard bearing make sure that the race is not rolling around in there. They all do over time. That will affect the life of the bearing and the hub. Use bearing tight to get them to hold in place. Works find. Tip. mineral spirits degreases well. Time to disasemble the final drive. 3-4 hours if you have all the tools. You might want to make a jack plate so that you can take outboard bearing off. If you do not have big enough wrenches for the nuts you can easily make them with strap iron. Other than that, not really a bad job at all to do. Good Luck Good machine.
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