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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Won't turn over Part 2

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Brad

09-16-2003 18:15:15




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This is a follow up from my earlier message on my Case 310E that won't turn over. Please refer to the link to see a crude diagram of the wiring for my following explanations. Please don't chastise me for my diagram!! I'm not an electrician!! What I have done so far is to clean all points of contact of all cables and wires (except the starter switch, which I couldn't get to) I put in a freshly charged battery, and tried to start it, nothing. I then bypassed the switch that disconnects the ground, thinking it could be a bad switch. Tried it again, still nothing. By nothing, I mean that the starter didn't turn, and nothing clicked, hummed, etc.....silence. I then put a screwdriver across the terminals on the relay (incoming + from battery, and the S1 terminal), and got a click in the relay, but nothing on the solenoid. I tried to jump across the two large terminals on the relay (incoming + from the battery, and the large terminal on the relay that goes to the solenoid), and got nothing....no clicking, etc. I'm not positive what I've proven, but I THINK I've bypassed both switches and the relay. Since I didn't get even a click from the solenoid, is that the most likely suspect? What else can I do to troubleshoot? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Brad

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Brad

09-17-2003 17:16:20




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 Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Brad, 09-16-2003 18:15:15  
You guys gave me some very good next steps. Very clear and concise. This weekend I'll follow through and let you know how it turned out. Thanks Brad



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Wayne

09-16-2003 22:20:22




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 Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Brad, 09-16-2003 18:15:15  
Hey Brad, I just read this post as well as the previous one and looked at your diagram too. Judging from what you've drawn, the starter has a relay type solenoid on it already. I say this because there's a wire going to the relay sol on the starter from the other relay, as well as the metal strap going to the post on the starter body itself. This wire and strap is the high amp starting circuit that actually carries power to the starter. The little wire from the switch is the one that actually causes the contacts to close and allows power to flow to the starter. Usually when you see an aux relay on a starting circuit the starter only has one big lug (like where the metal strap ties in) and doesn't have any of the smaller ones. It looks to me like they have somehow wired the starting circuit (wire from the switch) and the solenoid (little wires) on the aux relay and the solenoid on the starter (little wire) in series. Here's where your test light comes in. First check and insure you have power at the big post on the aux relay (from the batt) if so then have someone turn the switch to the start position and see if you have power on the little wire (from the switch) at the aux relay. If you have power there, then you should also have power on the big wire on the other side of the relay. Ok,now if you have power to the little wire and through the relay on the big one, good, if not that relay is bad, change it and that should fix the problem. Now assuming that relay checks out and you have power where your supposed to, then lets go on. Next, see if you have power on the little post on the sol relay on the starter itself. If on the aux relay you have power on the small wire and through on the big wire like we just finished checking, then going by your diagram, you should have it here at the starter too on both the small and big wire, when the switch is in the start position. If either wire doesn't have power on it then you have a problem in the wires between the aux sol and here. Now if you have power on both big and small wires connected to the sol relay on the starter, then the contacts inside it may be burned and not making contact. You can check this by jumping the post with the big wire on it to the metal strap on the starter body, and then hitting the start switch. This will bypass the contacts inside and make the power be going just through the aux relay and straight to the starter. If this works, then you need to have the starter sol relay replaced. If it doesn't work, then I don't know what to tell you. I work on heavy equipment for a living and if I could see it I could tell you exactly what was wrong in probably 5 minutes, but troubleshooting like this is like looking for a needle in a field full of haystacks. If it's wired the way it appears to be, personally I'd pull the hot/battery leg straight to the sol relay on the starter and pull the small wire from the start switch down there too, and eliminate the aux relay all together. I don't think I've ever seen an older piece of heavy equipment with the starting circuit wired like yours, but again, if it was working before, then just take it step by step with a test light and make sure you have power where you are supposed to and where the power stops there is your problem. Well, that's all the help I can be for now. Hopefully I haven't confused you further. If what I've told you doesn't work, feel free to e-mail me direct and I'll be happy to help you all I can.If I can't do it this way, I'll give you my number and you can call.....that way would be alot friendlier to my hunt-n-peck typing fingers. Good luck, and again if I can help anymore, just let me know. Wayne

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Brad

09-20-2003 12:44:07




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 Re: Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Wayne, 09-16-2003 22:20:22  
Wayne, I took my volt/ohm meter and first checked my battery voltage. I had 13 volts. I then checked the big post on the aux relay (from the battery), and also had 13 volts. I had someone turn on the key to the start position, and I had 13 volts on the S post on the aux relay. I also checked the large post on the other side of the relay that goes to the solenoid, and it also had 13 volts. I then checked the small post and the large post on the solenoid, and they also had 13 volts. I then checked the strap that goes from the solenoid to the starter, and had zero. From your description, that would indicate a bad solenoid/relay. For grins, I jumped from the large post on the solenoid to the strap that goes from the solenoid to the starter. I didn't get anyting. You suggested that.....would you expect the starter to spin? It could be that I didn't have a good enough connection, or maybe a starter problem also? At this point, I'm thinking that I need to remove the starter/solenoid and take it to an auto/electric shop for testing and possible rebuild. You agree? I really do appreciate your help. You gave very good logical instructions. Let me know what you think. Thanks again Brad

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Robert Hensell

09-21-2003 22:06:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Brad, 09-20-2003 12:44:07  
Brad, Try jumping from the post on the relay where the battery cable is attached that comes from the battery. If you jumped from the large post on the solenoid, you won't get power if the solenoid is not working. Be sure to make sure that the machine is out of gear because you are going to by-pass all of the safety features. If the starter spins, the problem is the solenoid. The starter should not engage the flywheel because the solenoid is not working but it should spin. If the starter still does nothing, I would take it to a starter shop and have it tested but first I would have the battery tested under load to make sure you don't have a dead cell. Is the battery new?

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Brad

09-22-2003 15:11:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Robert Hensell, 09-21-2003 22:06:15  
I tried jumping from the battery post of the aux relay to the strap that goes from the solenoid to the starter, and got nothing. I had originally purchased a new battery because I thought it was a battery problem. Since then, I've charged the battery just to make sure it's fully charged, and it hasn't made any difference. Is it possible that I've got a starter problem, and in my trying to start the dozer, burned up the solenoid? When I first started working on it, I was getting a clicking sound (I assume from the solenoid) when I turned on the key, but that stopped and I haven't been getting anything since. Thanks for your help!! Brad

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Robert Hensell

09-22-2003 17:51:42




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Brad, 09-22-2003 15:11:56  
I am about out of suggestions. You have tested about everything that that I can recommed. I think that my next step would be to take the starter and solenoid to a repair shop for testing and possible repair. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Maybe somebody else has some ideas.



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Brad

09-24-2003 17:37:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Robert Hensell, 09-22-2003 17:51:42  
Heh, you helped a lot!! I feel comfortable that the problem is in the solenoid, and possibly the starter. I've taken the starter off, and I am taking it to the rebuild shop tomorrow. I'll let you know how this turns out. Thanks again for all your help. Brad



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Robert Hensell

09-16-2003 22:00:12




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 Re: Won't turn over Part 2 in reply to Brad, 09-16-2003 18:15:15  
This may take two people. When you turn the key or push a starter button, test at the S terminal at the relay for proper voltage(12 volts?) with a volt meter. If no voltage, trace wire back to start switch to see if there is a circuit breaker or fuse in the line. Test it if present. If you are getting voltage at S, then test at the large cable out of the relay for voltage and also at terminal 1 of the relay. If no voltage, replace the relay. If voltage at these two terminals, then test for voltage at the solenoid. If voltage is present at the solenoid terminals and the solenoid will not engage, replace the solenoid. All of the above is tested with the starter key switch or push button engaged to start. Does this machine have a neutral switch on the gear shift? If so, test it for voltage first.

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