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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Diesel engine troubles

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James

11-11-2003 18:52:01




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I am looking at purchasing a TD20B crawler. The owner said that it has a blown "O" ring on one of the sleeves. I really don't know much about Diesel repair and definately never heard of an "O" ring on a sleeve. How much trouble is it to fix? Is it sonething that I can do my self or would I have to hire it out? Thanks, James in Texas




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Wayne

11-11-2003 19:22:15




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 Re: Diesel engine troubles in reply to James, 11-11-2003 18:52:01  
The O-ring on the sleeve is because it has wet sleeves vs dry sleeves. In a wet sleeve the outer walls of the liner are used as part of the engine water jacket, so they are in contact with the coolant. As a result they use O-ring seals to seal the liner to the block to keep coolant out of the rest of the engine. On a dry type liner the block provides the walls for the water jacket and the liner just 'sets' in the hole and never actually contacts the coolant, relying instead heat transfer between the metal in the block and the metal liner for cooling. As to how much trouble it is to fix, it is really hard to say. If the engine was run alot before the leak was identified, which it probably was, then your looking at the posibility of the bearings being worn due to coolant in the oil, as well as the posibility of the block being pitted in the sealing area of the o-ring (which is often what makes them leak in the first place) making repair more expensive or in some cases impossible. As for it being hard to do, from a professional standpoint, it isn't all that hard, basically if your going that far anyway you'd just do an inframe overhaul. Otherwise by only fixing one cylinder you create weak points out of the others, one of which will be the next to cause problems. It's not all that hard, if everything is OK with the block, crank, etc and you don't have to actually pull the engine. It's when you get into it and find additional problems, be it with pits, etc in the block, wear in the crank, etc, which inevitiably happens, in my experience at least, that it becomes more difficult. My advise before you buy it would to have a local mechanic,who you can trust and who knows about machinery, take a look at it and give his opinion based on what the current owner says, and what he sees (and hears if the machine is runnable at all) I don't know how much the man is wanting for the machine, or what current rates are for mechanics in your area, but I think it would be worth your while to do it like this. Basically if you don't know enough about the machine to make an "educated purchase" your better off to spend a little money to have somebody look at it than to "buy it blind" and spend alot for a machine that's just totally beyond repair, or is worth alot less than the cost of the repairs it needs. Good luck. Wayne

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James

11-11-2003 21:42:54




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 Re: Re: Diesel engine troubles in reply to Wayne, 11-11-2003 19:22:15  
Thanks for the info. I can get my hands on a DT 466 TURBO DIESEL ( rebuilt in 1999 ) That was in a school bus. Could I put this in the crawler with out any major modifications? I think it currently has a DT 429 Thanks, James



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Wayne

11-12-2003 19:49:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Diesel engine troubles in reply to James, 11-11-2003 21:42:54  
The first thing you'd have to do is insure the flywheel housing and flywheel is the same, or at leaast interchangable between both engines. If it isn't then your pretty much doomed with a swap from the start. I'm not that familiar with what parts if any are interchangable between the two, maybe somebody else on here can help out in that department. It might be possible to make adapters if their not the same, but that stands to create clearance issues, and by the time you'd get into all that "making things work mess" you'd probably have spent as much time and money as you would to simply rebuilt the old one. Another thing that would be a concern is that one is a turboed engine and the other is NA. If 466 is much higher in the HP and torque department than the 429 then you stand the chance of tearing up things further down the drivetrain that won't be able to stand the higher output. Personally if I were doing it I'd just rebuilt the old one and be done with it. I don't know what the going labor rates, machine shop rates, etc are in TX, but just for refference, up here in NC you can normally figure in the neighborhood of $1000 to $1500 per cylinder to completely rebuild an engine, at least through me and Dad. The last engine we rebuilt for a customer, a 6 cylinder, 3306 CAT, the dealership wanted $17000 to do it. We built it, put it back in, as well as doing some other work for about $12,000. Now to just do an inframe would probably be a little less, but like I said in the first post you always run the risk of things being worse than they first appear when you get the engine opened up, so it's always a good bet to figure high so nobody is suprised, except in a good way, when the job is done.

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