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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

damming a creek

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ray

12-24-2003 08:04:57




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I have a wet weather creek I would like to dam up for water supply,I tried digging a pond in a low place near the creek,but I hit bedrock 4ft down and it will not hold water. I am planning on filling the pond up and opening the creek channel up and building a dam placing manifolds in the dam for water relief. Anyone have any input or experience at this?




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bruce christian

01-18-2004 19:39:06




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
I would advise calling localities. There may be regulations in the area about drainage systems. if it is a small wash, it may still be protected by local government. I talked to a fellow in michigan a while back and he said that it was illegal, in michigan, to stop flow in a wash/drainage system and other people could go on your land to fix the problem if it became a problem for them. Check it out first to be safe.

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Jim

12-25-2003 08:05:19




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
Its against Federal law to dam a creek,stream or river.Don't believe me, call the Corp of Engineers. Your fish pond could end up costing you a couple hundred grand in fines,and restoration work.Neighbor tried the same thing a couple of years ago,it cost him $175,000 time it was all said and done. Don't think cause its out of sight,you won't end up with a problem. They fly all the wetlands,steams and rivers on a regular basis to monitor water flow and amounts as well as taking satellite pictures weekly.

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ray

12-25-2003 17:25:24




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 Re: Re: damming a creek in reply to Jim, 12-25-2003 08:05:19  
The word creek may be miss leading,I am talking about nothing more than a ditch a person can step across on private property that will in no way effect anyone in any direction.



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jdemaris

12-24-2003 18:02:50




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
Why can't you line the pond you dug with clay and seal it?



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gm

12-24-2003 15:41:08




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
Just make sure you have a good sized pipe(2 ft) near the top to keep the dam from being eaten up. I guess it depends on the max flow you get. Buy some of those big rolls of plastic over at home depot or where ever. Cover the bedrock & dam with it and you should be able to hold some water. Put some dirt on top to keep it from getting torn up. -Greg



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Taylor Marret

12-24-2003 11:28:49




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
The local soil conservation office has an excellent guide on building ponds. Here where I live you cannot dam a creek without some kind of government permission.



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Pablo

12-24-2003 15:31:44




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 Re: Re: damming a creek in reply to Taylor Marret, 12-24-2003 11:28:49  
In 1972 when I lived near a small town in central Arizona, the neighbor on the ranch down the road, built a damm on a dry wash. It was concrete approx. 15 ft. high and 30ft wide. He spent quite a bit of time and money. Never tested it as to if it would hold water, the authorities blew it up about a month after completetion.



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JBL

12-24-2003 09:56:07




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 Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 08:04:57  
Just curious about what you mean by manifolds? How wide and how deep the ditch is will determine how much dam it will take to hold water without blowing out. Also what kind of material did you hit when you dug the other pond?



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ray

12-24-2003 14:21:27




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 Re: Re: damming a creek in reply to JBL, 12-24-2003 09:56:07  
What I meant by manifolds are @6" or 8" pipes through the dam turned up with elbows covered with mesh to keep fish from escaping. I hit layered sandstone rock when I dug the pond in that area. The total length of the small creek is @200 yards long @ 5 degree slope. Since I am dealing with limits on depth I will need to get length and width to accomplish what I want.



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JBL

12-24-2003 22:31:35




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 Re: Re: Re: damming a creek in reply to ray, 12-24-2003 14:21:27  
Ok I see what you mean now. When you do the turn up try and goto a larger size. Lets say you use 6" for the pipe, try and make the turn up 8" or larger. This will help load the pipe to it's full capacity. Also if you can fasten something flat inside the center of the turn up it will keep it from getting the whirlpool effect and sucking air. Since you hit sandstone I am assuming that you either hit some yellow or red sandy clay. This stuff is very difficult to get any compaction on but if you have the equipment and time I say give it a go. The worst that can happen is that you have to push it back in. I agree with what Taylor said also, goto the NRCS office in your county. They will have topos of your property and give you the watershed area that will run into your pond. This will really help you in determining the size of pipe or pipes you will need and the amount of freeboard. Here they have money alotted for building ponds and will actually come out and lay the pond out. They will give you all the grades/pipesize and so on at no cost regardless of whether or not you use there money.

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