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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question

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Jack McGann

01-19-2004 07:40:18




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Gents: I have a question about the Drott 4/1 on my T340. The 1 1/4" dia shaft across the top of the bucket that operates the clamshell: Is that supposed to be hardened steel? What was originally used for pins to attach the center lever arm and at the ends of the shaft where it attaches to the clamshell? The one in my loader was shot so I replaced it with cold rolled steel and used hardened bolts for the pins. They seem to shear pretty easily and the holes in the shaft deformed. Suggestions? Also, how many times to you have to run over your tools before you learn not to leave them on the tracks? Thanks Jack McGann

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Chris

01-19-2004 22:53:48




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 Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question in reply to Jack McGann, 01-19-2004 07:40:18  
I used Heat treated pins as replacements. Believe it or not I also used heat treated hitch pins that I got at TSC as a replacement master pin in the tracks. Have about 100 hrs on them with no wear.



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Charlie

01-19-2004 16:37:52




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 Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question in reply to Jack McGann, 01-19-2004 07:40:18  
Glad you asked this question, as I'm planning to rebuild the same joint on the same machine this summer. You can probably get a replacement pin, and there was even a guy on this board a while back with an inventory of new Drott pins (you could do a search). But in rebuilding other joints on the bucket and rear scarifier I've had good luck with 3 different steels that are easy to get from the web or a local supplier. I've used larger worn track pins, putting them in my wood stove and leaving them to cool in the ashes to take out the hardening treatment, remachining to my size, including drilling for lubrication and pins at the end, and then hardening them in a friend's ceramics kiln, water quenching and then tempering, according to some specs I found a a handbook. (The original pins are probably case hardened by an induction treatment.) I've done the same with a medium carbon steel I bought new at the right diameter. I also have used a "stressproof" steel alloy that I bought on the web, and it hasn't failed yet. I'll be eager to see what other advice you get because it will help me too. I'm not sure where you get and how you put in a hardened bushing for the probably gouged out center hole in the clam lever.

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ihmike(n.e.tx.)

01-20-2004 21:26:34




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 Re: Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question in reply to Charlie, 01-19-2004 16:37:52  
Charlie; I have put many of those bushing in cat machines and it sounds like its the same as a cat. My advice is that if you want it to last and last. Just haul the bucket up to a reputable heavy equipment dealer that does that kind of work and ask him to fix it. It takes too much special equipment and tools to do it right for someone at home to attempt it for the first time. This applies if you are using that machine a whole lot and do not want any trouble. If your not using the machine a whole lot then it doesn't have to be fixed right. Not many people that have a t340 use them a lot anyway because of the parts situation.Can't afford to use a machine commercially you can't easily get all the parts for.Its a shame. I have a td-340 and it would be worth twice as much if it had parts support like John Deere or Cat.

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Charlie

01-21-2004 05:17:18




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 Re: Re: Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question in reply to ihmike(n.e.tx.), 01-20-2004 21:26:34  
I only use the machine occasionally, and I'd love to know about my options for replacing bushings myself. The original ones in this machine, as I recall, are split and fit in under compression. Are hardened steel bushings a standard item like bearings that can be purchased by size? Are there different styles? What's involved in putting them in right? In rebuilding other bucket joints, I have been sucessful in making up jigs to deal with alignment issues. Thanks for any advice.

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ihmike(n.e.tx.)

01-21-2004 17:59:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader question in reply to Charlie, 01-21-2004 05:17:18  
charlie; Most of the stuff I deal with is larger. but not that much larger on some of it. If the bore is damaged where the bushing fits. Weld up the bore evenly all the way around, but not too much. but enough. Then you call the machinists out. They bring a line boring set up. You have to weld there brackets for there line bore apparatus for them or they do it depending on the crew you get. Then they start a slow process of boring all the bores on the blade or what ever your redoing. Can take days on some equipment.One bore, the set up is going to take longer on that small bore. Home fix, small bore, mayby you could drill or torch if you was "good nuff" and hone it out to right size, I don't know? Have to ask machinist for shrink fit size. I think 2-5 thousands per inch,? heck I ain't know machinist.. Then you get the liquid nitrogen cart out and freeze the heck out of the bushings at about -440 below zero which is dang colder than I've ever seen before, and if the machinist's did OK DOK then them slap sukkers will slip right in their if your holding your head just right. If not, well you got a world of trouble. Been there many times. Get out the slege hammer quick Big John!! and drive it home. The frost is coming off this thing fast! If the hammer didn't do it, its start over or get out the hollow core ram, porta-power set up and all-thread (high-test type,and be careful as they can turn into a cruise missle, believe me as we have targeted Bagdad before on nightshift the bosses have never heard about.)A 16lb. sledge ought to suffice on that little 340 if yoo stll young nuff to sling it. I'am not anymore. I remember slinging 20 when I was 20 but that's another story.Anyway that's how you get them in to stay. After you've broke a few in the process and got some people hurt broke some machines etc. etc. that's why I said to do it right just have it done because it will cost a lot of money but you may get hurt or tear it up doing it. But mayby this will give you some ideas. The bushing has to be in tight all the way around or it will not stay in place for long.It takes a beating.Why don't you look through some heavy equipment graveyards and try to adapt somebody else's idea over to your machine. If you could ever get that pin from moving in the bucket it would not wear the bucket bore. Mayby a pin that has two or three bolts in a flange on each end.You would have to drill and tap the bucket for the bolts, and weld a flange to the pin. I don't know about the other end? Oh well?

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Charlie

01-21-2004 18:12:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader questi in reply to ihmike(n.e.tx.), 01-21-2004 17:59:38  
That sounds like so much fun, maybe I can get my brother-in-law to do it :)



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ihmike(n.e.tx.)

01-21-2004 22:49:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: T340 + Drott 4/1 loader qu in reply to Charlie, 01-21-2004 18:12:36  
charlie: You say you don't use your machine much. and if you want a quick fix. You might try this if you can get the new bushings in one piece. Weld up the bore best you can. Deslag hole and burn the best smoothest hole possible to fit the bushing as close as you or someone good with a torch can. Take the new bushings and heat them to a dull red heat (out of the sun), then immediatly throw them in a container of either dry sand or oil absorbant and cover them up quickly. Allow them to cool for at least 20 minutes or more. This ought to take a lot of the hardness out of them without taking all the hardness out of them. ( I am not pretending to be a blacksmith so if anyone knows better chime in). if you put them in full hardness in a loose bore they will surely shatter. So the softer the better. The redder you get it the softer it will become when cool. You may have to use a large flat washer/spacer on the outside/inside to keep bushing in place so make sure this is possible before attempting something like this. Hope I didn't leave anything else out.I would think this would run for a few hundred hours, which is a lot for home use. I reckon the problem is,can you keep the bushing retained?

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