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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

JD 350 Final Drive Smoking

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Wingnut

04-17-2004 09:09:47




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From lookin at previous posts it looks like this week is final drive problem week....I did get dozer working..(new rod and crank bearings thanks to JDE).After workin with it for two days i noticed clutch like fiber smell coming from right rearend...Smoke coming out of screw hole on back of dozer in final drive area...I take it the clutch facings on final drive are gettin to hot.??Or steering clutch is locked up...??Or lack of final drive oil..Iam not to up on the final drive area...Where does the oil get filled at ...i do see a bottom drain plug..???Thanks in advance

Wing

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JD dozer mike

04-17-2004 19:12:15




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 Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to Wingnut, 04-17-2004 09:09:47  
Call JD with your ser # and have them check to see if it would have dry clutches , some early models had drys ,



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jdemaris

04-17-2004 19:30:13




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 Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to JD dozer mike, 04-17-2004 19:12:15  
All the 350s have dry steering clutches and brakes until the "C" model.



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jdemaris

04-17-2004 10:34:52




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 Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to Wingnut, 04-17-2004 09:09:47  
Top of the final drive is a common fill with the transmssion (which has a dipstick). Bottom of final drive has a fill plug, one for each side - right above the drain plug. 90W EP GL5 gear oil if fine, but you can also use the lighter combination trans. and hydralic oil if desired - like Deere's brand, Hyguard. Sure you don't have a brake-band locking up? Can you operate your steering levers with your foot on the brake pedal? If not, your brake cross-shaft is rusted fast.

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Wingnut

04-17-2004 18:40:12




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 Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to jdemaris, 04-17-2004 10:34:52  
JDE...I did remove the top covers....The brake band was locked up...The side im having trouble with linkage doesnt seem to move as free as the other side....If the bands need to be replaced do the finals need to be removed or can they be serviced from the top...Once again thank for your help..I hope there are alot of other people learning from my posts and your knowledge..


Wing



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jdemaris

04-17-2004 19:11:12




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 Re: Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to Wingnut, 04-17-2004 18:40:12  
The final drive has to come off to replace the band, steering clutches, etc. Make sure the linkage is free as I stated before. Put your foot on the brake pedal and hold it down hard . . . then try pulling back on your steering levers. If it feels like one of your steering levers is attached to the foot pedal, then the cross shaft linkage is rusted. I've had to free up a lot of them on 350s, but usually without taking much apart. There's a cast yoke with a shaft going through it, and the two usually get rusted together. I usally get them free by using a torch. I'll explain further and later if you decide that's the problem.

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Wingnut

04-18-2004 18:50:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to jdemaris, 04-17-2004 19:11:12  
Jde....Yesterday when i took the cover off i sprayed the linkage with some lube ...It seems to work...But looking at the adjustment the screw is adjusted all the way out...Ive used it all day yesterday and today seems to be working ok so far...Holding brake and still will turn...Bands must be worn.??

Wing



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jdemaris

04-19-2004 05:35:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to Wingnut, 04-18-2004 18:50:38  
You DID check the steering levers with your foot on the brake pedal? As far as the brake adjusters go, there are two. One deterines the diameter of the installed brake band, and the other determines when it gets engaged in relation to when your steering clutch gets disengaged. To work properly, the steering clutch must be disengaged just before the brake band grabs. Easy test is to have the machine in forward, go up a steep hill, and while the trans and reverser are still in forward, pull both steering clutch levers back. Somewhere in their travel, there should be a point where the crawler wants to roll backwards even though the cluth pedal is up and all is in forward. Then pulling the levers just a bit beyond that point will stop the machine with the steering brakes. The adjuster that determines the installed brake band diameter has a 1/2" nut on it, and has a washer under it that has high and low spots. That keeps it in place. Put a socket or wrench on it, i.e. 3/4", and turn it all the way tight - just firm - then back it off one flat. That's the initial adjustment for diameter. Then the bolt and jam nut determine WHEN the brake comes into use.

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Wingnut

04-19-2004 16:42:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smoking in reply to jdemaris, 04-19-2004 05:35:24  
JDE...I will try that..Yes i was talking about the bolt and jam nut...Wasnt sure what its purpose was but i see now...Sounds like its all in timing together...Thanks

Heres a before of what im doing link

www.safewerks.com/b4.jpg

Heres a after or in betweenpic link

www.safewerks.com/PICT2127.JPG

Wing



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jdemaris

04-19-2004 19:05:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 Final Drive Smo in reply to Wingnut, 04-19-2004 16:42:51  
I looked at your photos and I almost envy you, or at least your soil. I've been more-or-less doing the same thing. I'm trying to cut a new road in through a couple of steep banks. But . . . soil here is half hard-pan, shale, and huge boulders. I've got a Deere 1010 crawler/loader with a ripper on the rear (almost the same size as your 350). I hit a lot of spots where I have to bring in my big ugly Pettibone Mulithoe backhoe and break things up a bit, then come back in with the 1010. I've also got some big maple stumps - some I dug out with the hoe, and some I pushed out with my Allis HD6 dozer. I started this project last Fall, but then it started snowing, and basically, never thawed or dried out again until now. What part of the counry are you in? Your soil looks sandy and your trees have more green on them then here in Central New York.

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