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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

jd350 steering brake grabs

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MrBill

04-19-2004 11:22:44




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There has been a lot going on about steering and reversers and everything so here is my delimea.

The left side seems to operate correctly where you pull back on the lever and it slows the track down for a gradual turn and the more you pull it then it comes to a stop and you tun on a dime.

The right side does not have the gradual slip. It is either fully engaged or stop, so the cornering to the right gets kind of jerky, stop go stop go.

I am assuming this is an adjustment for the clutch, but I want to make sure here. Is there a seperate clutch and brake adjustment? I don't have a service manual, just the OM and PM.

Also, it seems like you have to pull the levers almost all the way back to get it to steer. What is the proper range and adjustment for the clutch and brake?

Thanks,
MrBill

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jdemaris

04-19-2004 14:01:48




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 Re: jd350 steering brake grabs in reply to MrBill, 04-19-2004 11:22:44  
This is, as asked for, a "quick" rundown on adjustment. This is assuming the adjustments
are not rusted fast and the clutches are not swelled or stuck. It's difficult to describe this
without photos to follow, but I'll try. Keep in mind, you want to achieve a situation
where, when the steering lever is pulled back, first there is some free-play (before contact
with the clutch throw-out bearing), then clutch disengagement . . . then just as the clutch
is fully disengaged, the brake starts to grab. You DO NOT want the brake taking hold
while the clutch is still engaged. That being said, pull the little top cover off the clutch
housing you wish to adjust (four bolts). Then, find the initial-adjuster on your brake band
- probably takes a 3/4" inch wrench, look for a nut on a threaded stud attached to one end
of the brake band. It ought to have flats on it so it wants to rest in one of two possible
positions, 180 degrees apart. Turn the nut clockwise until snug (not wrench-tight, just
snug). Then back off one turn. Now, notice how the linkage inside the housing operates
when you pull back a steering lever. There’s a little threaded rod with a small ball joint at
each end. One end is spring loaded and can be popped off for adjustment. When you pull
back on a steering lever, that threaded rod actuates a flag-shaft that in turn, pushes on the
steering clutch throw-out bearing. The action of the said threaded rod also, at a certain
adjustable point, begins to engage the brake. The point of brake engagement is
determined by a bolt locked by a jam nut; 3/8" bolt I believe. So, to put things in proper
sequence, loosen the brake-actuating bolt and back off for now. Then, set the free play in
the steering clutch by popping the threaded rod off and shortening in (by turning in a ball
joint end on the threads). If you get an inch of free-play at the start of travel in the
steering lever, that's fine. Keep in mind there's probably slop in the lever an linkage too;
you must have actual free play in the clutch. You can look down with a flashlight and see
the throw-out bearing and clutch fingers if you're not sure. Note: If you cannot get
free-play because the clutch pressure plate fingers are too high, the clutches are probably
swelled and rusty. It is possible to re-adjust the pressure plate fingers from the outside,
but it's difficult. Assuming you've got the free play, and you’ve done the initial
adjustment on the brake band, now you want to pull back the lever until the clutch
disengages. At that point, adjust the brake actuating bolt so it just makes contact when
the clutch is disengaged. This is easier to determine by running the machine. When I
worked for John Deere, I'd put the crawler on a steep hill facing up. Put it in forward and
start climbing the hill, and then pull the levers back until the crawler rolled backwards. If
it won't roll backwards, then the brakes are grabbing too soon. You should have a narrow
spot in the lever travel where the clutches are disengaged but the brakes are not quite
grabbing yet - that's why the crawler should roll backwards.

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MrBill

04-20-2004 06:21:55




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 Re: Re: jd350 steering brake grabs in reply to jdemaris, 04-19-2004 14:01:48  
Thanks JDE!!
The clutches were rebuilt just a few years ago and then wasn't used much since so I don't think I'll have the issue of things being rusted together. It's probably the breaking in of the clutch and brakes that these need re-adjusting now.

How often does someone need to readjust the clutch and brake?

Thanks for your detailed explanation. I print off your comments whenever I see your responses and tuck them into my manual for reference. Thanks again!
MrBill

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jdemaris

04-20-2004 12:03:45




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 Re: Re: Re: jd350 steering brake grabs in reply to MrBill, 04-20-2004 06:21:55  
If the machine sits most of the time, it may need to be adjusted frequently. The steering clutches tend to absorb moisture when the machine sits, and when that happens they swell and get thicker - and thusly, clutch free-play disappears. Then, after you use the machine for a while, the moisture cooks out of them, and the adjustment changes again. Thats why Deere changed over to wet-clutches that ride in oil starting with the 350C series. Some people choose to leave the drain plugs out of the clutch housings which provides better ventilation. But . . . if you have them out, and forget they're out, and cross a creek or pond, they'll fill up with water and get sludged. I've had no problems storing my crawlers with dry clutches, but I keep them inside a building parked on concrete.

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MrBill

04-20-2004 12:42:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd350 steering brake grabs in reply to jdemaris, 04-20-2004 12:03:45  
Since I do not have any building on the property at this time, do you recommend removing the drain plugs on this 350B provided I do not use it to enlarge my pond? But like you said, I need to remember they are out.

I plan to build a building in the future, but we still do not have roads and a driveway yet.

Thanks again,
MrBill



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