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jdemaris
05-18-2004 19:19:13
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Re: Looking at a JD350C for landscaping in reply to Anthony, 05-18-2004 06:38:42
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It's a good sized machine for landscaping, not good for heavy work or pond building. Hopefully, the one you're looking at has a 6-way blade and a hydraulic reverser. 350 is not heavy or powerful enough to push out big stumps, a 450 will do much more - so I guess it depends on what you call landscaping. All the 350s have dry steering clutches until the "C" series. As far as the pins and bushings go, most of the wear occurs on one side of them, so both can be turned about 180 degrees ONCE. If they've gotten too worn, they cannot be turned. If they are already broke through, forget it. Some users cheat a little and take a link out of the track chains so they can be tightened properly again. All depends how many corners you want to cut. If your sprockets are half worn out, and the rollers not the best, and the track chains worn thin, then you might as well take out a link and get a little more use out of the undercarriage. If you DO decide to have the pins and bushing turned, keep in mind the labor charge will be the same as if you were putting new ones in. As far as weak points go, or common problems? It's doubtful the machine only has 3000 hours on it, so anything is possible. Early hydraulic reversers are not as strong as newer units (unless it's already been rebuilt and updated). Make sure it's working well when hot. With the crawler in 2nd gear, full throttle, you should be able to shift from forward to reverse without pushing in the clutch, and it should change directions with a firm shift - but not hard - just a firm smooth engagement. Steering clutches are another issue. Even a machine will all new parts can go bad just sitting, they tend to absorb moisture. That's why the 350Cs went to wet clutches. So, . . . make sure it steers and pushes okay. Put the machine in 3rd or 4th gear, hold your foot on the brake with both steering clutch levers back, let the clutch pedal up (with the reverser in forward if it has one), and then . . . one at a time, let a steering lever forward slowly until the engine starts to labor, and eventually begins to stall. That's what should happen with each lever. If, instead you hear a squawking sound and engine does not labor or stall, the steering clutch is slipping.
Also, look at the side-frames where they bolt to the steering clutch housings and see if they're cracked in that area (common 350 problem). Also, look at the cross-bar that runs sideways and the track frames on both sides attach to it. An early 350 is bolted tight. Look for broken or loose bolts or a bunch of sloppy welds. Later 350s gave up on keeping the frames tight because they cracked too much, and hooked them up floating in dowels instead. With that setup, inspect the wear on the dowels, there are six on each side. I could go on for a long time, but I'll mention one more thing. If the crawler has a reverser, look underneath where the reverser case bolts to the transmission case. There are two studs and nuts on top, but on the bottom just two bolts. Make sure they are there, and appear to be tight. If they are loose, and it appears the two cases have been wobbling around a bit, don't buy the crawler.
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