Cat D2

Yes, the D-2 steering clutches are prone to sticking if left for long periods. They are a multiple disc clutch with a ball bearing type release bearing which is also prone to trouble if not properly lubricated and then left for a long time. The only way to check them is to run the tractor, or tow it and see if they release.

What is the serial number of the machine? The D-2 had quite a production run and they made many changes along the way. I have an early 5J, (1938), which I rebuilt several years ago. The transmission case was cracked, but I was lucky enough to find another rear clip which included the transmission and finals. I made one good one out of the two. My local Cat dealer was able to supply all of the parts I needed, which was quite a few.

Mine has a rope-start pony, 50 inch gauge with a PTO. It is a great tractor with tremendous pulling power. I use it around the farm, as well as pulling a log boat and running the sawmill off the PTO.

Good Luck,
Scott Goff

Recently read your reply to the "Cat D2" entry in "Yesterday's Tractor" site and am in hopes that you might be able to answer a question (or two) for me.
I have an early D2 CAT (model 5J, serial #52) and need to break the track, so I can get into the right-side steering clutch.
My problem is that I don't know how to get the master-pin out. It has a fine-threaded 3/8" hole in the center of the pin (on each end)and what appears to be a split ring around the outer edge of the pin (this appears to be the same on both ends also)
Why is it threaded . . and "how" do I get it out??
I can't find anybody close around this area (South-west Washington) that knows too much about these older CATS. The "young" fella's here at the local Cat outfit don't seem to have a clue. They even tried to convince me that I didn't need to break the track to get at the steering clutch. I find that really hard to believe . . .
Any help you can give is much appreciated.

You will need to break the track in order to pull the final. Your access to the steering clutches is very limited on the D-2. With the exception of adjustments and lubrication, the access holes won't let you service much else. Pulling the final is not all that bad, as long as you are on a good concrete floor and have a couple of floor jacks and some blocking, or an overhead crane.

The track pins you have are the early style. The bolt holes are actually puller holes for the two tapered pins that are inside the track pin itself. If you look carefully, you will see the O.D. of the tapered pins. Find several flat washers that are slightly larger than the O.D. of the tapered pin, stack them up and use the bolt as a puller bolt. If they don't come easily, use a little heat. Pull both tapered pins (inside and outside), then remove the split rings and drive the master pin out. Again, if it doesn't drive easily, use a little heat. Be sure to leave the track pad/bolts in place, or you may spread the link when driving the master pin out.

The little tapered pins actually "swell" the master pin slightly to keep it in place. Once removed, the master pin will come out much easier.

If things don't go well and you have to burn the master pin out, don't worry. I am quite sure replacements are still available and are reasonably priced. The new master pin will not have the little tapered pins, just the split rings. If you do use them, be sure to install them with the "dimple" in the center of the pin facing out, so you can easily locate the master pin the next time you want to do a little track work.

I hope this is helpful. If you have any other questions and would prefer to talk about it, feel free to give me a call. I can be reached at (860) 738-2441. Keep in mind that I live in the People's Republic of Connecticut, several time zones from you.

Good luck!
Scott