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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

hardess of track link after heating?

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Dozerboss

08-09-2004 10:26:24

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Just wondering how heating a track link affects it's hardness? I have heard if you cool the metal rapidly it restores hardness - true or false? Thanks.

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Wayne

08-09-2004 21:06:03

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Re: hardess of track link after heating? in reply to Dozerboss, 08-09-2004 10:26:24

If you have to heat the rail to get out a master pin or whatever it isn't gonna make any significant difference in the way it wears. I can tell you for a fact that from the factory the links aren't all that hard to begin with but they are tough. I had to cut down a new one nearly 3/8 inch a few years back and use it to repair a wornj out set til the man could finish a job and get them replaced. A carbide cutter would cut it with no problem but it was so tough I just had to cut a little at the time. As for the hardness factor, it's a little more complicated than I'm qualified to explain but it is true heating and quenching can make a piece of metal harder. There's alot more involved than just heating and quenching so I'll usually read the Machinist Handbook and follow the directions for exactly what I'm wanting to accomplish with a particular type of metal. In the case of your rails don't worry about that, just heat it, do what your doing and let it cool naturally. If you did quench the link it could make it so hard that it got brittle which could cause it to break, or since most links are a cast material it could possibly crack just from the quenching. We've been heating the links and driving out stubborm pins for years and have never had any problems with them getting soft, breaking later, etc. Good luck.

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Dozerboss

08-09-2004 22:25:00

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Re: hardess of track link after heating? in reply to Wayne, 08-09-2004 21:06:03

Thanks, ran into a problem with a pin spreading the link instead of going right into the hole. Finally got it and heated the link again hoping it would "pop" in shape. No good. Put a track puller directly on the link and squeezed it back tight as it was cooling. Once it was back in size we cooled it with water about 10 minutes after the torch was off it so it was a slow quench with warm hose water. The pin head mushroomed a little and cracked a small piece off the edge in the process from hammering. I think it will be fine. But curious about hardness factor. Wish we had the deere press, i notice it braces the link on both sides as it pushes the pin in, preventing the link from spreading.

It was a difficult job, swapping 18 inch used shoes on a new chain, to replace 16 inch shoes. Now there is a clearance problem with the roll cage mount. About 1/4 inch too high. The mount was broken and rewelded, that may be the problem. Thought it would be a direct swap since deere offered the 18" shoe on both machines. We were hoping joining the track and pulling it tight might solve the problem, but all it did was make more difficult angles to get the links aligned.

These machines are forest service owned so they wanted to keep their 18" shoes. Ever had to trim a shoe, when replacing a chain? I know shoes are hardened good. It's an aftermarket chain so maybe the links are a little taller. Amazing to see a 25 year old shoe with only about 1/8th worn off the grouser. They pretty much only use the machines when theres a fire and a budget cut is reducing the fleet. So were doing some unique swapping of parts before the auction. Thanks.

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