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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Adding a backhoe attachment to a TD9B/150 Drott lo

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Seann

09-07-2004 17:23:43

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I've got an IH 150 loader and have been using it on my property for logging, driveway building, clearing etc. The loader is amazing in all it can do (especially with the 4-1), but still if there's one thing I could really use, it's a backhoe. After pricing decent 4x4 TLB's they seem to start at $15k on up. Plus I've seen them get stuck in the mud around where I live.

So, I'm wondering if it might be a better idea to buy a used backhoe attachment (for a LOT less) and adapt it to my machine. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and also have a nice portable gas powered arc welder, so I'm hoping it's not too big of a job for me. But I just don't know much about these doo-hickies. I know they have two types, one that runs off of a PTO (with a self contained hyd system) or the kind that taps into the loader's hydraulic system via quick disconnect hoses.

My machine has a big counterweight on the back, but I'm pretty sure it has a PTO outlet behind the weight?? Anyone know on this machine? And a few more questions:

1. I definitely want to be able to fairly quickly disconnect and reconnect the backhoe as needed (i.e. I do NOT want to be stuck with it permanently mounted to the rear). Is this fairly easy to adapt?

2. Of the two types of hoe attachments, is the PTO version better or one that taps into your hydraulic system?

3. How difficult is this kind of conversion/adaptation?

4. And does anyone happen to know where a backhoe attachment is for my type of loader? (I believe they came with Wain Roy types originally).

Thanks in advance

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Charlie

09-08-2004 06:18:35

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Re: Adding a backhoe attachment to a TD9B/150 Drot in reply to Seann, 09-07-2004 17:23:43

Hi Seann -- I'm not familiar with your machine, but I did adapt a backhoe to a TD340 with complete success. Here are some thoughts:
1. If you're going to power it from the tractor's hydraulics, which is what I did), it might be a little slow (but just as strong) if the tractor's system has a lower flow rate than one orignally designed for a backhoe. You'll just need to put a diverter valve into the return line, to allow connection when the hoe is on, using quick disconnects.
2. Find a hoe attachment that has good pins and looks like it wasn't beat to hell. I got one for $1000 in perfect shape. Then plan mounting brackets on the loader to take it. This will take some good welding and drilling, etc., but it's straightforward.
3. This kind of hoe, working off the tractor hydraulics, can then be connected to the hydrualics and powered up into the right spot to put in the mounting pins, or you can lower it into slots in your brackets. Look at some mounting options on other machines to figure out what works for you.
Good luck.
Charlie

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Seann

09-08-2004 14:32:43

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Thanks, and a few more questions... in reply to Charlie, 09-08-2004 06:18:35

Thanks for your response Charlie, that's great to hear you met with complete success with your conversion. I'm hoping to learn more about this process though - do you have any detailed pictures of what yours looks like and how you really adapted the whole thing. I'd love to see them if you have them available.

When you selected the backhoe you bought, how did you know the whole thing would end up working with your crawler? One thing I've seen on many of them is a seat that "appears" as if it will get in the way of my fuel tank. Plus I'm not that clear on how the quick disconnect ones are hooked in and installed/removed. There is a Case hoe on ebay now that appears to have 4 hinge pin sockets on it (in a box arrangement) that I guess is hinged into position and then pinned into place. And like you said, I guess they plug in the hydraulic quick disconnects and then use the hoe to move itself into position? So this would obviously make a non-PTO hoe attachment the preferable choice...right?

Can you explain in more detail how I would install the necessary hydraulic lines and the diverter valve you mentioned? And I have a powershift machine that will not permit elevated engine power settings unless the machine is in gear. Do I have to modify the throttle linkage/system in order to overcome this?

Sorry for all the questions, any advice you can offer would be very helpful.

Sean

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Charlie

09-09-2004 05:17:14

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Re: Thanks, and a few more questions... in reply to Seann, 09-08-2004 14:32:43

I don't know anythng about the engine speed issue, but I assume you can work your bucket when in neutral, so I would think that you could operate the hoe also. The return line from the control valve that powers the bucket probably goes into the hydraulic reservoir, which is the transmission in my case. In principle, you are cutting this line and inserting a diverter valve (see Northern Hydraulics, eg) that in one postion sends the fluid through as before, and in the other position diverts it into the hoe circuit: one line into the hoe and one out, each connected with a quick disconnect, essentially like on an air hose. Of course, you're not physically "cutting the line", you're replumbing it to have this effect.
The box layout of the pins is common, an upper and lower on each side. I made two T bar brackets by welding 4 by 6 half inch angle iron back to back, and mounting them vertically on each side. Of course you have to build out good support brackets near top and bottom and figure out what to use for anchor points on the tractor. Every machine will have a different layout. I do think that using the machine hydraulics gives you more flexibility than in mounting to a PTO, but I have no direct experience with the latter. Good luck.
Charlie

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george md

09-08-2004 23:44:59

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Re: Thanks, and a few more questions... in reply to Seann, 09-08-2004 14:32:43

Seann, I think you are beating the wrong end of horse, cost of the work to blacksmith a hoe on that tractor ( if you cannot do all of the cutting
and welding etc) will probably exceed the cost of
an older hoe . Look for a 530,580,580B , you don't need a 4 wheel you have a track machine to do the
messy or big work.Weather can't stay wet for ever,
when it quits raining your swamp will be a desert.
I saw the pictures of your job. While digging in
a swamp a hoe will push itself thru most anything,
been there done that and got the tee shirt. If you need a piece of cable big enough to hold that
tractor , I'll give you some , I have many hundred
feet then you can pull out any thing that you swamp.

george

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Seann

09-10-2004 17:23:03

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Appreciate the help... in reply to george md, 09-08-2004 23:44:59

Charlie thanks for the information on how you adapted your hoe. I followed pretty well what you meant about the two T brackets welded up and put on the back. After looking my loader over a bit more in detail I can see it won't be that easy for my machine. I want to be able to quickly swap out the hoe and reinstall my counterweight. The counterweight is big and heavy (probably over a ton) and in order for me to retain it I'd have to come up with a quick disconnect mounting system for it too. But thanks for the info, I'm going to mull this one over carefully before I take any action.

George appreciate the offer for the cable, I might take you up on it someday. I do plan to eventually buy a tractor loader backhoe and sell my loader when I'm done with it (probably in a few years). I can't afford both of them, so for now I'll be using my loader for some time to come. That's why I'm thinking along the lines of a detachable hoe, if I can get the whole thing bought and adapted for under $1500 it seems like a pretty good alternative to a whole seperate machine.

And that saying "been there got the t-shirt" is hilarious! I've got quite a few t shirts since I've been running this loader, especially the times I got it stuck in the mud. Man, what a hassle. I have a whole new appreciation for the dudes who do this stuff for a living. It's fun and fulfilling work, but it can be some serious hard work.

Anyway, thanks again to all. If I decide to go through with this I'll let you guys know.

Sean

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