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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Track Pin Driver

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Pete/ME

09-10-2004 02:44:40




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One of the things I'm going to do this winter is rebuild the steering clutches on my straight 350. I think I've come up with a design for a gizmo to drive the master pin in and out with a small hyd. jack, I figure the thing won't cost more than 50 bucks to make but was wondering if there was something out there already.?




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NC Wayne

09-11-2004 06:15:34




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to Pete/ME, 09-10-2004 02:44:40  
Here is a link to an outfit that carries just about any type of track tool you might need. They have a trick setup that clamps to the track to take the place of having somebody hold a pin knocker. I made up something similar to it a while back to break a track on an old 7-GB AC and it worked pretty good. Also if you look under the tooling section it gives alot of information about the track s on different equipment like what size the pad bolts are, etc.

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Pete/ME

09-11-2004 03:07:26




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to Pete/ME, 09-10-2004 02:44:40  
Thanks. That pin-driver looks interesting. Two problems are: I don't have oxy./act. and I work alone. I think I'll work on a pusher-some jacks work on their side if you put the works on the down side. If I get the thing to work, I'll post drawings and pics. (Maybe make'em for sale and get rich!)



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VaTom

09-11-2004 05:16:14




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to Pete/ME, 09-11-2004 03:07:26  
Please do post it. I also generally work solo. Splitting the track on my old JD was a piece of cake (unfortunately got a LOT of practice). My Cat, however, was better to have a friend visit. Even then it wouldn't have happened without oxy/act.



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BigC

09-10-2004 06:13:24




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to Pete/ME, 09-10-2004 02:44:40  
Link here is a link to a manual driver. Its not that bad of a job.....Just get her mounted...heat the track(not the pin) do it quick so the pin doesn't swell. Then use a 16 pound sledge and let her have it!!! Once it starts moving...DON'T STOP HITTING IT TILL ITS OUT!! Putting it back in is pretty easy...freeze it(pin) heat track use somoe antiseize and pop it in

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GLewis

09-10-2004 05:53:53




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to Pete/ME, 09-10-2004 02:44:40  
There is not much out there for $50.00. Most portable master pin pushers are rated for 30Ton plus and cost $1,500 to $2,000. I still just weld a handle on a bar and use a 16 lb. sledge and some heat if necessary to brake the track on my 350's and 450's. Most bottle jacks will not work when turned over on their side. The little 10 ton imported porta-powers that can be used in any position will not begin to move a master pin.

Going back in I use a new pin, put it in the freezer overnight and slobber it with never-seize. It usually goes back in with a few gentle taps. My local JD Dealer does not own a pusher, they still use a sledge. Anyway, just my two cents worth.

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Dozerboss

09-11-2004 08:48:57




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 Re: Track Pin Driver in reply to GLewis, 09-10-2004 05:53:53  
I have used the import 10 ton porta power 6 times with heat and round bar to remove the pin, working solo. Harbor freight tools-$125 for the kit on sale.

The only way it worked for me was to line the pin up with the hitch or a bolt head on the rear as the jacking point and have your jack and pin aligned straight, otherwise it will jump out of place. Once everything is ready, i started with a short piece of bar on the jack end, because that is all that fits. After heating enough to move it halfway, then i had to switch to a longer piece of bar to push it thru. C-clamps help keep the link from spreading. If it spreads too much, your shoe bolt holes won't line up and you'll have to reheat and straighten it.

The pin won't budge with 10 ton without heat. If you find a way to jack it without heat please post it Pete. I think the JD press tool is 50 tons and looks like it hooks the back of the link to prevent spreading.

Wish i could watch someone hammer one out and see how it went. I had no luck, but didn't have a 16# hammer. Tried hammering it with the fabricated tool shown in the shop manual. Someone else posted using the hammer method using railroad ties to align the driver. I think wear maybe a factor in how hard it is to get it out.

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