A 350B should have power-steering, so besides an adjustment problem it might be out of
power-steering fluid. I’d make sure to test the steering clutches. Put the machine in 3rd
gear, let the foot clutch up but holding the steering-clutch levers back. While holding down
hard on the foot-brake, slowly release the steering-clutch levers. As you release them,
the engine should labor and finally stall (unless the brakes won’t hold). If the engine just
labors a little but does not stall, then the clutches are slipping.As far as the engine goes, #1 the injectors aren’t worth rebuilding (it has the little “pencil
injectors"). They can be purchased new at a reasonable price. In that engine, a bad
injector is not going to cause white-smoke. It’s likely you have shattered top piston rings. The 3 cylinder uses conventional straight sided piston rings which have a tendency to
shatter, especially when ether is used for starting. The later 350C and on engines use
Keystone taper-cut rings, like the 450 series, and are much more durable. Head gasket
failures concerning the combustion chambers on this engine are rare. Another problem is
the Roosa-Master JDB fuel injection pump. When the little plastic governor
weight-retaining rings blows apart inside the pump, the engine will smoke, run unevenly,
etc. until it finally quits - sooner or later. On the side of the injection pump, facing out, is
a little metal door with two screws - maybe an inch wide. Take the door off, and if
everything looks clean all is probably okay. If you see little black bits of something that
resemble mouse turds, then your governor is blown apart. They all do it, and it’s a matter
of time rather then engine-hours. The plus side is the engine is easy to rebuild. I used to do them out in the woods in a
day (sleeves, pistons, and a exchange rebuilt head). Off course, that’s only if the crank
and bearings are okay. In regard to the undercarriage, check where the cast crossbar bolts to the side frames on
both sides. On a B it’s supposed to float, and it wears and cracks. On the early 350s it
was bolted tight instead of floating in dowels, and would break off. Another weak spot is
where the reverser housing bolts to the transmission case - if that is loose you are in for a
mess. There are four fasteners - two nuts on studs, and two bolts - and all should be so
tight that a normal human cannot get them loose without extraordinary means. Also,
check the ends of the steel side-frames where they attach to the clutch-housings. It
they’ve cracked, and have been rewelded, they probably are no good. John de Marrais
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