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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

septic systems

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LRH

11-10-2004 16:24:05




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Are there any good sites to find info on installing drain field.I have all the local and state guidlines and manufacture specs.but they are given for ideal aplications and don,t seem to answer questions I have regarding depth of ditches on slopes ect.Seems about all we have here is heavy clay soil.The guidline here is 18 to36 inches.Which is better deeper or shallower chambers or graveless pipe?

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Bradley

11-12-2004 11:26:13




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
Try this one....

Link

or this one....

Link

Hope this helps.

Brad



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David-N-GA

11-11-2004 19:54:55




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
In our state, Georgia, septic systems should be put in on a contour and we don't have a choice of how many feet of drainfield or how deep the drainlines should be put. In "bad" soils such as heavy clay or soils which perk slowly, often times we must haul in fill dirt which consists of sand which has a small amount of clay mixed in so it won't erode as bad. At first contractors scoffed at these "mound" systems which is what they are referred to around here, but in actuality, they really perform well in most cases provided the drainfield installed is the required amount for the amount of bathrooms and people living in the structure. The product I install is not gravel lines, but a product called Infiltrator Septic System Drain lines. These are molded plastic pieces that are 6'3" long per section and simply snap together until you get the required amount of drain line installed. When properly "packed in" along the sides with fill dirt before backfilling, they will support a backhoe passing over them without caving in. Thus, upon completing the system and box blading it smooth, one should never have any problem in passing over the system with equipment like a large mower, small tractor, or pickup truck. I'm very satisfied with the Infiltrator system and since the entire bottom of the drainage ditch is open as well as side vents for the efluent to pass thru, we get a 50% reduction in drain line length by using this product in our state. Especially good when using a mound type system as one doesn't have to purchase so much fill dirt since the drain field area is half as much. Bottom line, in most cases, you would want your drain lines to be as close as possible to the ground surface as septic systems rely greatly on the sun for evaporation to work and most of the lighter soils that water can penetrate easily lie closer to the surface. I found thru many years of trial and error running a large mobile home park that just putting something in the ground to say you have a system installed is NOT good. Putting a system in the ground that works, IS good. Good luck with your system.

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Rob J

11-11-2004 09:15:49




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
Still all depends on what your soil will take. Have you done a perk test on the soil to see how fast the soil/clay will take the water. My septic is about 24" deep but still in some sand/clay/ore mix. Perks well. A little higher on the hill and it's red clay. Put water in the hole, cover it up and come back next week and the water is still there. Same clay used to seal up ponds. Point is if your clay is like this a big field may not do you any good. Aireated (sp?) or evaporated field like mentioned (maybe the same thing) is what you'll need. Cost a lot more because you need pumps to spray the water in the air and over the area.

Good Luck

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Midwest redneck

11-11-2004 08:36:09




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
I live on clay, about 1' of topsoil then clay, then heavy clay. I have a raised field (cost me a fortune) about 600yds of sand, 150 yds of 6a stone then cover dirt. plastic perforated pipe 700 lineal feet. These types of systems are also referred to as evaporated beds. You may want to make sure that you get a correct design before you start installing. I would not be fun to find out that 3 years from now you have to rip it out. Good Luck.

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talltines

11-11-2004 03:00:53




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
hi
check this site, hope it helps ya.

http://www.inspect-ny.com/septbook.htm



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Dale(MO)

11-10-2004 17:58:59




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
Here in my section of Missouri, we "generally" go 30"-36" deep, 24" wide. All I can say, is DO NOT use graveless pipe, no matter what anyone tells you. In heavy clay, especially, over a short period of time the clay packs in tightly around the pipe, leaving no where for the effluent (water) to go. The best system is a gravel field. We always put about 2"-3" of septic gravel (2" washed river gravel) under the pipe, then backfill with the same about 20"-24" over and around the pipe. You then cover it with straw or one-way trench fabric, then backfill. With the gravel system, even in clay, it won't pack in and will always drain. Here in my county, they require 165' per bedroom, and I have never known of a gravel field (when put in properly) to give any problems. My $.02 worth. Good luck!

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possum

11-10-2004 17:17:24




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 Re: septic systems in reply to LRH, 11-10-2004 16:24:05  
If you are on a slope you will probably be 18" on one end and 36" on the other, but shouldn't be shallower or deeper anywhere. A drain field line must be ABSOLUTELY flat - no fall. Where you change levels you drop straight down with unperforated pipe, then resume perforated pipe. Do a search on 30 TAC 285.91. These Texas OSSF Rules have a useful set of tables as the last appendix.



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