One thing that would concern me is the increased stress on the final drives, a very real possibility of causing a failure, and subsequent costly repair. I suspect the holes you saw are either for snow or landfill operation, to allow the sprocket to clear out built up snow, ice pack or garbage. These are usually larger and in the center of the pad. My old D7 has smaller than the diameter of the pad bolt holes on either side of each pad, possibly for bolt on street pads or something. I would think that bolted on angle may fail under these conditions as you only have the tensile and shear strength of the bolted connection to displace the load, and it would be concentrated, meaning you could distort or break the pad. Drilling larger diameter holes and using more and thicker dia. bolts to make the connection in the pads would increase the strength of the overall connection, but is a lot of work, as the pads may be hardened. The angle you install may be mild steel like ASTM 60 ( A-60 ) and will wear quickly under these conditions as it is not hardened. Welding grouser bar onto the pads is probably the best solution, but before you do so, you should confirm the condition of all of the undercarriage components prior to investing in the material and the labor of installing it, which is another tedious time consuming task especially if stick welding. Say your pins and bushes have a lot of internal wear, are stretched and they are not riding in the root of the sprocket, and you don't have adjustment left, by adding grouser bar, you increase the bite you have into underfoot conditions, get more traction, but you may increase the wear factor beyond normal wear rates, even slip the chain in the sprocket, substantially shorten the life of your already worn undercarriage, as you increase the stress applied to transfer power from the sprocket to the chain ( pin/bushing ). It's all related somehow, best to consider doing some research, by seeing what you can find out what was an undercarriage option for your machine when it was offered new as well so you don't exceed what it was designed for, it won't take long to find a weak spot, especially if you work it hard. You don't want to install new grouser bar that is too tall either. I do know of a 955 or a 977 Cat (forget now, been awhile ) that had grouser stock installed on the pads, I was in the shop while they were being installed, and very soon after, ( I think the machine had some substantial rebuilding all the way around as well ) it was used 1 mile away to excavate through shale for the new shop building. Cat components are engineered strong, they invested a lot of time and money in this area over many years, as well as their final drives being stronger than most other manufacturers, so depending on the machine you have and it's reputation in the conditions you plan to use it, you may want to do some research, spending a lot of time and money to get more traction just to have some other component fail would be highly undesirable. You say temporarily, 1/2" heavy angle with the highest strenghth bolts you can find, torqued right down may only last for a little while anyway, so maybe it would get you through, if you are careful, I'd be very easy on the machine, pushing stumps out is very hard on any machine, digging around them, undermining the root system 1st and then breaking them out will be less abusive and easier to pop em out.
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