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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

What size bearings?

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David in SC

12-30-2004 14:50:24




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I have a Case 450B with 207 diesel that sat for 5+ years before I got it. Got it running but it blows 2 qts oil/hour and keeps the neighbors house smoked up. Also blowing steam and slobbering oil out valve cap breather. I finally took the pan off to measure the rod bearings hoping that I would find the size stamped somewhere on the liners. No such luck. There is info stamped on the outside of the bottom of the liner. It is as follows: DAB 190 B A-51915 DA-95. Does this mean anything to anyone? I would like to know the size of the journals so I can order an in-frame kit. Also, I measured #3 with plasti-gauge and I have .003 clearance. This is within the tolerance of .001-.004. I may not even replace the liners; any advice welcomed. I have excellent oil pressure and I did not see anything visible on crank bearing I looked at. No odd knocks or sounds while it runs. There is a nice patched hole in block where #1 threw a rod in its previous life. Needs more JB Weld as it leaks a very small amount. Antifreeze is dripping from the #1 sleeve area. I assume this is bad O-Rings and part/all of my steam problem? Current plan is to put in a kit and pull head and have it machined and bad parts replaced. Any advice welcomed.

Thanks,
David in SC

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NC Wayne

12-30-2004 18:46:30




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 Re: What size bearings? in reply to David in SC, 12-30-2004 14:50:24  
If it set as long as you say the slobbering problem is most likely due to stuck compression rings on one or more cylinders allowing it to blow-by into the crankcase. That along with the water leak would tend to make a huge cloud like you describe. If the crank has ever been turned it should be stamped/written in paint on one of the throws (usually the first or last) with the dimension it was turned to, be it .010, .020, etc. The guys we use over at IF Engineering always mark the mains first and the rods right below it since they can be turned differently. Also check around the bottom of the block where the pan bolts up and around the outer edges of the deck and see if it has been stamped indicting that the block has been decked in the past. Sometimes it's stamped there, sometimes it's somewhere else, you just have to look around. Now, on to the liners. The leak can indicate a leaking O-ring, but considering it's coming from number one liner, it can also be from a crack that was created when the block got broke and "repaired", or it could be that that part of the block got a little warped when the rod went. What ever the problem, be it a crack, bore out of round, or o-ring leaking, your just tempting fate to simply replace the orings. Personally with the problems your having I'd go ahead and pull the engine and do a complete rebuild, expecially if your planning to keep the machine and run it. Have the head and block crack checked, have the hole properly repaired (no more JB Weld), go ahead and replace all the liners because even with honing it's usually hard to get new rings to seat in on the old ones, and if they don't it's a long, expensive way back in to do it again. If the crank is OK you can leave it alone or simply have it polished, that's always a judgment call when I do one. I usually go ahead and have it polished just for safetys sake, and to cover my own a-- but everybody has their prefferences. Too getting it out where you can work on it gives you the chance to replace the front and rear main seals, which are probably to the point that they're gonna need replacing soon anyway. An inframe has it's place but, like I said, with the problems your having if you were to call me out to rebuild it for you there is no way I'd be able to stand behind the rebuild and give you any type of warranty without pulling it and having everything checked before going back together with it. Just my .02 hope it helps you decide what to do...

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