I think a CASE 580 is what I want, have more quest

I was hoping someone could give me the rundown on all the different 580 models, what are the differences?

I know that I want:

4WD
E-Hoe
4 in 1 Bucket
ROPS (does not have to be enclosed)

Any 580 experts here?

What do I look for when looking at a machine such as this?

Transmission fair, what does that mean?

What I want is a late 80's early 90's machine.

The ones I'm looking at are in the $15,000 - $20,000 price range.

580E, 580K, 580CK...

"Currently we don't have any used backhoes in the $15,000 price area. Here's some info on 580 models- 580E's made from 1983 to 1986, 580K's made from 1987 to 1994, 580 L 1995 to 2000. New backhoes today run in price from $65,000 to $70,000 plus. As a general rule of thumb a good late model used machine will run approximately 1/2 of new. Pretty reliable machines today are in the $25,000 to $35,000 area. In the northeast US a very high percentage of machines will have enclosed cabs, most are 4x4 and many will have extendahoe option for backhoe. The 4n1 loader bucket might be harder to find as that option is probably only sold on 10% or less machines. If you are locked into a $15,000 price range, you will probably be looking at higher hour used machines that might need some repair on a frequent bases. Parts are readily available for most models of 580's and there are decent numbers of them around. Thank you for contacting Monroe Tractor and hopefully we can assist you in your search for an appropriate used backhoe."

Ouch...

I can't realistically go much higer than $18,000 tops...

You may also want to consider a DynaHoe 4x4 TLB, I've seen pretty nice ones go for under $15k. Dynahoes are older machines, but they made them into the 80's. They're very big and very powerful...in fact, I don't think anyone ever made a larger rubber tired TLB. They have a reputation as being as tough as nails too, basically an industrial grade TLB. Its size and power may be a good match for your large lot.

Anyway, something to consider if you have problems finding a newer machine in your price range.

Good luck

Here's a link to an ebay auction for one...

• DynaHoe Ebay link-->>

I bought this off of ebay. I just got it and I need to make some repairs. It has no brakes and some cables are gone. Does anyone know where I can get a manual for this beast? It is a DynaHoe 190-4 4WD. I paid $6,500 for it and I am told by many that I did well even after shipping and repairs. My email address is: good_cheap_stuff@yahoo.com.

Thanks: Mark F

• Dynahoe 200-4

• dynahoe

In general you want to find private sellers (i.e. owners) selling them instead of dealers. Dealers are almost always 30% to 100% more expensive than a private seller. It wouldn't surprise me if the seller purchased this unit for about half what he is selling it for.

As far as parts, I have no idea what's the deal there. But I do see a lot of used machines for sale, mostly in the PA, NY, MASS area. They were heavily sold and used there for some reason. I would suspect there are sources for new and used parts in those regions.

He wants $13,000.

Where are JCB's manufactured?

I never really heard of them until just recently...

Can't help but think they are a nightmare to get parts for...

I just typed along post on different TLB's and it got lost, so here is a short version. Dynahoes are heavy,slow, and built like a tank. Biggest problem is no individual wheel brakes. The brakes are used a lot in backdraging and and grading. Case started with the 580, then 580B, then C and so one. The D was the first with the 4-390 engine, but some of the D's also had the 188D. All the E and later letters had the 4-390. Ford 555, and 555B, and most 555C's had a 3 cyl engine, the 555D and later had a more powerful 4 cyl. If trenching/digging is the bulk of what you will be using it for the extend-a-hoe is great. If main use is clearing/ grading/farm use, I'd opt. for a 4x4. I know you can get yourself out of a slick spot with the loader/hoe, but with 4x4, you probably get to where you need to without turning the seat. It seems as if every time I need to use it it's muddy and on a slope. HTH, Nat

It is 100% flat, and 100% wooded where I want to build.

I have 100's of trees to take down.

I have trenches & ditches to dig.

I have to dig a pond, very large one, probably 1-2 acre pond...

I would like to use the backhoe to dig footers, put in septic system, you name it.

Soil is about 6-8 inches of topsoil, then clay, very muddy in the springtime until I get drainage sorted out.

My lot is between two large open farm fields, and a bit low...

The pond will help with drainage, and the excavated dirt/clay will be used to build up my driveway & backfill the home foundation, etc...

My father will bring his International 444 with front end loader and landscaping implements to my lot to do most of the earth moving.

I want to backhoe to assist mainly in tree removal, and digging... And I want the 4WD for scraping of topsoil off the clay bedding.

I feel I need the 4WD...

I also feel the 4 in 1 bucket may be more useful to me than extenda-hoe...

Your land sounds somewhat similar to my lot. I have soils that are very soft when it gets wet, topsoil layer and then loamy clay underneath. It can be a mess when its wet. My biggest challenge was avoiding getting stuck in the wet bogs (like where I was installing culverts). I did get my machine stuck 4 times in the mud. Although I managed to work my way out every time without calling in any heavy equipment. If your lot is like mine in that respect, I would go with a machine that's got mega traction (like a crawler).

I put in an 800' driveway and used my crawler to save on my road materials. I undercut out the soft topsoil and then stockpiled it. Then I would dig trenches parallel to the road path and remove solid, sandy/gravely clay material out of the trench and put it into the undercut road area. Then I would take the stockpiled topsoil and use it to fill in the trench. Ending up with no big piles of dirt and decent roadbase material in the roadway (saving me the $$ to pay someone to truck in road base material). I have a hilly lot too and used my loader to cut into the hilly driveway sections to flatten out what would have been a hilly driveway. Those hills would have been tough to drive up and down in the winter after a snow, plus I used the undercut clay/gravel material to fill in the low lying culvert areas. It worked like a charm.

The loader also does a number on trees, plenty of traction weight and power. No struggling involved.

Here are a few pics of my loader in action...

However, I can only afford one machine, and will do all the work myself no matter how long it takes...

I"m going to go look at a 1985 JCB 1700 4WD TLB tomorrow... 6000 HRS, guys looking to get $13,000.

I understand one machine can"t do it all.

However, I think for long term use, the TLB is my best choice...

If I dig the pond in mid August, I doubt I will have a water issue...

I do have a brother with an old ford TLB 3400 down the road about 5 miles, and a friend who has a 5 ton Excavator...

No one with a crawler loader or dozer however.

If I bought enough beer, I could have:

Whatever TLB I get
Ford 4400 Front end loader
Ford 3400 TLB
International 444 front end loader
5 Ton Excavator
And even a "pickup sized" dump truck
All on site to dig the pond...

And Sean, yes, I'd love to have a crawler loader like yours, but the chance I would be taking on the undercarriage... I just think a TLB of the CASE 580 size is what I want first...

In any event, I'm going to look at that JCB 1700 today...

I'm not sure how deep the pond has to be, but if you could keep the pond no deeper than the maximum trenching depth of your hoe, you could largely avoid getting down in the hole. The big TLB's can trench to 20' I believe...at least the Dynahoe can, and I would think an extenda hoe TLB probably could go close to that deep. You could just dig a circular pit with the hoe, then use the loader to periodically remove the excavated soil around the perimeter. And then continue digging around the circle (and removing the stockpiled soil) until the circle grows to the size you want. And if you trenched a drain in the center at the beginning of the dig and installed a pipe to remove any rain that comes in, that would keep it dry...as long as no ground water percolates up, which would really be a problem.

Although if I did it that way, I would be real careful about the edge of the hole though. I've heard bad stories about operators digging or operating at the vicinity of a "cliff" and their machines fell in, sometimes caused by the bank crumbling away. Probably survivable at 20' as long as a modern ROPS was installed and you were properly seat belted in...but still, not a fun ride.

Anyway, it should be an interesting project with the constraints you'll be working under. Keep us posted and let us know how you make out.

good luck