Identifying 188 diesel

The other problem is knowing how many holes should be open in the rear cam bearing. The engine ID tag had previously been removed from the block which is what is used in the manual (Thanks George!) for identifying cam bearings and hollow bolts.

So, how do I go about sorting this mess out?

What makes matters worse, I think the machine shop installed the front cam bearing wrong as only one oiler hole is open to the oil passage. The manual seems a little ambiguous on this issue.

Oh yeah, this engine has the small flange liners if this helps any.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Brad

• 1963 Case 530CK backhoe

I wish I could be of help on your 188 Diesel. Ive got a '68 Case 450 Loader with the same engine that I'm in the process of tearing down to rebuild (in-frame). I hope to have the cylinder head off this weekend. I'm guessing that my 188 is probably pretty similar to yours. If there is something I can look at or take pictures of let me know.

I enjoyed your web site. Where on earth did you find that old Simca? Years ago I worked on a '68 model Simca (water cooled inline 4 in the back). Never did get it running but then again I still had lots to learn about engines. I also worked on a '59 Renault 4-CV. This was also a little inline 4 water cooled in the rear of the car. Looked forever like a little VW bug with a pointy nose.

I noticed in your Greenbriar pictures that the Farmer had either a John Deere model 50 or a model 60 tractor. I've got a 50 myself.

No MGBs? I've got one that I've rebuilt the engine, transmission and suspension sitting outside getting rusty while I'm busy with the Case 450.

The Green '68 Spit looks great. You've even got a pretty young babe to model with it! I've always wanted a Spit but there isn't enough time nor money. If I'm lucky I'll eventually have a '66 Corvair Corsa with a 140 engine and 4-speed trans.

Let me know if there is something I can check on my 188 for you.

John
1968 Case 450

Thanks for offering. Fortunately I finally managed to solve the problem this afternoon after talking with George Miller. There is a change point on the 188 diesel engines where the oil to the rocker train switched from the center pedistal to the rear pedistal. The early engines had the oil feed go through a hole on the right side top center of the block and the later engines were fed from the rear camshaft bearing.

Once we figured out my block didn't have the rear oil hole up to the head it became a no brainer that mine fed from the center.

What this means is on the early blocks the front and rear cam bearings each only had one oil feed hole where the later blocks had an extra hole in the rear cam bearing.

As for the Simca, we found it about 12 miles from where we used to live in Dallas. Some guys uncle had died and he had all kinds of odd ball cars. We actually went to by a 1952 Triumph Mayflower and ended up buying the Mayflower and the Simca. My wife fell in love with it! Pretty strange little car but remarkably intact.

The greenbrier pickup is for sale if you're interested or know anyone that is.

I've owned an MGB before but for some reason they don't do much for me. Its probably pretty obvious that our first passion is Triumphs!

Although in the last year we've bought a 1945 Ford 2N to use around the property and then this 1963 Case backhoe. We're now in the process of buying a 1960 John Deere 440 crawler and I'm really looking forward to that one. Last but not least we've picked up a 1968 Ford 2-1/2 ton dump truck. Guess I'm getting a small construction empire setup!

Brad

• 1963 Case 530CK backhoe

Thanks for the information on the oil passages. I wonder if possibly the extra oil passage to the rear cam bearing was in response to field failures? I'll have a look at the cam after I pull the head this weekend and check for excessive wear.

Did you have any trouble with the Sleeves? I have not worked on a Sleeved engine before and have never removed or installed them. The manual shows a special tool for this, but it appears to me that one could tap them out from underneath. It also looks like they can be pressed down into the block with a piece of flat steel run over the sleeve between the head bolts.

The "in-frame" kits come with new main bearings but at the moment I don't see how they can be replaced while the crank is installed and I don't see any way to remove the crank without pulling the engine out of the frame. My engine showed good hot oil pressure and so I'm not really worried about the main bearings but it would be nice to replace them if I could. The problem with my engine was excessive blowby and a little coolant in the engine oil. I'm mostly concerned with the head gasket and rings, both of which will be replaced with new parts.

I finally got the oil pan to break loose last night but it is blocked from falling down out of the way by a crossmember and a front mounting block. It lacks clearing the mounting block by about 1/16 of an inch. I'm thinking the engine has settled on its mounts a little over the years. I'll have to pull up the engine slightly to get it to clear. I was surprised to find that my oil pan is a solid piece of cast iron!

Any plans to replace your injectors? I have not thought about it much as the engine ran okay before I tore it down but now might be a good time to replace them. Depends on how much replacements (rebuilt or otherwise) are.

Best of luck with your rebuild!
John

Field failures is a distinct possibility. The difference in oil flow however is the middle hole gets its pressure directly from the mains which means there is going to be a lot of pressure going up to the rocker train. The rear hole comes from the cam bearing which has reduced pressure. I'm betting that over oiling was as much a problem as anything else. To much oil on top of the head can lead to oil getting in through the valve guides when the seals are worn and lead to excessive smoking. Just a thought.

As far as the sleeves, I took my block to a machine shop and they pulled the sleeves for me. I had been hoping for a budget rebuild where I could use the original sleeves and pistons. Turned out all of those parts were worn beyond hope. I ended up buying a real nice set of used pistons and sleeves for $140. Definitely cheaper than the new set and they cleaned up just fine.

I bought the backhoe with a known knocking sound from the engine. We had been hoping for just a hole in one of the pistons, unfortunately it ended up being a spun rod bearing which trashed both the rod and the crank. Finding a replacement crank wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. So I now have a nice freshly turned crank at .010 and a decent replacement rod. So much for the budget rebuild!

I'm not sure how you do the crank bearings with the engine in the frame. These bearings have some pretty hefty side shoulders unlike normal car bearings which are just curved half discs. I'm betting you won't get enough deflection in the crank to slide the top bearing out. Be interesting to see how you fare on that one.

I'm going to have my injectors rebuilt. I've been told the pencil type (later) can't be rebuilt but the ones like mine can. I think rebuilding or replacing is one of the better things you can do for a diesel rebuild.

Thats interesting that your oil pan is cast, mine is sheet metal. Maybe thats one of the lessons learned over the years. It might have been to easy to puncture a sheet metal pan from tree limbs, etc.

Hope your rebuild works out ok!

Brad

• 1963 Case 530CK backhoe