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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

deere 310 hoe needs clutch work

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jerry s

04-04-2005 17:03:29




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I have a middle 70's JD 310 Diesel.
The clutch is starting to slip, It won't move very well in high range. To top it all off, now there's hydraulic fluid leaking out of the small hole in the bell housing. I haven't gotten a hsop manual yet. What's leaking? Do I have to split tractor to change the clutch? Or can I pull the motor?




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Roy Suomi

04-06-2005 19:31:19




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to jerry s, 04-04-2005 17:03:29  
I just reread your question to jdemaris, what did you mean by some pedal left????? There is a flip down lever on the clutch pedal , that when its flipped down and pedal stop contacts the floorboard. you're shutting off oil in the transmission . When the stop is flipped up you can push the pedal down farther thus disconnecting the engine clutch for cold weather starting. There should be little or no clutch resistance felt at the top 4 or 5 inches of the pedal. The only time you should feel clutch is when the lever is flipped up.. Good Luck...

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jdemaris

04-04-2005 19:55:06




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to jerry s, 04-04-2005 17:03:29  
Before pulling it apart, it will behoove you to ascertain if it's your forward reverser hydraulic clutch slipping, or your engine clutch on the flywheel.



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Jerry s

04-04-2005 20:23:28




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to jdemaris, 04-04-2005 19:55:06  
How can I test this? One thing I have noticed is that the clutch is much better in reverse, I have a lot more petal left.



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Roy Suomi

04-04-2005 19:40:38




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to jerry s, 04-04-2005 17:03:29  
Yes you will have to split the machine.. The oil leak is coming from the front cover of the reverser.If the loader front mount hasn't been cut , you can cut the front of the loop so it will allow the engine / tank assembly to slip out of the open end of the loop. If it has been cut you're in good shape.The clutch cross-shaft can be cut in half in the middle of the throw-out bearing boltdown area. Then take out the pieces. Remove the bolts on the aluminum cover. Pull the clutch assembly out. Rebuild as necessary. Watch for scoring of the manifold bushing in the reverser housing. It may have to be removed and changed. When assembling the machine, position the clutch cross shaft with the throw out fork bolted in place. Tack weld the cross shaft, remove the throw out fork and finish welding. Grind flat surface to accomodate the throw out bearing fork ... Oh , don't forget to install the spring on the shaft before welding..Check the splines on the input shaft, Check the splines in the clutch disk too. Good luck If you're wondering why cut the shaft off? If you take off the loader, the shaft will pull out far enough to clear the aluminum cover inside. Use suitable wooden blocks under the loader arms in the front and blocks under the backhoe swing post to keep the machine stable while splitting....

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Jerry s

04-04-2005 21:51:42




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to Roy Suomi, 04-04-2005 19:40:38  
Thanks, You don't live near Dallas do you? LOL
I checked, it does have the cutouts in the front.
If I leave the loader on, there's that big cross member between the arms....it looks like I'll have to tip the bucket to raise it, to allow enough movement.
Does the technical manual explain this as well?
What do you think, about an 8 hr job, tops?
Can you give me more detail about the leak? Is it the manifold bushing? I wan't too botherred with the clutch since is does work in low range, but that leak really has me spooked. It dropped about a quart or so of fluid on the ground, I'm not sure whether it happens when going forward or reverse. BTW, I have more clutch when I'm in reverse than in forward, is this a clue to anything?
Thanks!

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Roy Suomi

04-06-2005 19:19:47




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 Re: deere 310 hoe needs clutch work in reply to Jerry s, 04-04-2005 21:51:42  
You need to raise the loader all the way up. Then block it up with 3" angle iron placed in the cylinder chrome, then slowly lower the loader till it stops on the angle irons.You will need to get angle iron thats at least 1/4" thick. The angle iron will contact the pin boss area at the top pin [ when raised ].And the lower portion of the angle iron will sit directly on the cylinder rod guide. Then block up the front of the loader frame just behind the front tires.. Because of the leakage at the clutch housing drain, It's gotta come apart anyhow....The clutch pack leakage can be checked at the reverser control valve back cover. There is an o-ring plug that comes out to check pressures. Install a gauge capable of 200 psi. With gauge installed start engine , slip gear transmission into neutral , place throttle at about half speed , then shift reverser lever from neutral to forward and note pressure, then shift lever to reverse and note pressure. 9 times out of 10 the forward will read lower than reverse. If you'r concerned about how much time it takes to do the job. figure on about 5 hours to take apart if things go well. and maybe a whole day to reinstall. I would also worry about the engine clutch. If oil is getting into the clutch housing , it's probably got the clutch soaked too.. If not, check it for spline wear. Up here in northeast Ohio I've run into a bunch of stripped out splines due to rust and general wear and tear..Leakage can be from 2 different places , either the manifold bushing and sealing rings, Or the clutch pack piston seals

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