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I assume you mean the "rearend" is the final drive cases, which you have to use the end of a hex head bolt bent at a 90 deg angle or welded to another piece of steel, or similar tool to get the threaded cover out of the case. That is a good thing though, finals should be in decent shape, but beware of leaky final drive seals, you'll see oil spots on the inside surface of the track pad directly behind the sprocket, mine leaks a little, so I stay out of any water, slop or muck, to keep same from getting in the works inside the finals. I believe the main's oil is checked while running,( I should know this.... but I stand to be corrected ! ) but the starting engine, if the vertical 2 cylinder type, you check like most engines, when not running and cold, they hold 2 quarts of oil and line up on the full mark when checked cold, the dipstick is on the side of the starting engine block facing you, about track height give or take, the drain plugs are under the bottom and are a pain to get to. I clean the immediate area carefully and wet down any dusty or dry areas with a spray bottle, then pull the crank case inspection cover off carefully, suck the oil out of the sump areas with a napa drill powered pump, carefully clean or lightly flush out the interior of the crank case and put the cover back on, I avoid dealing with the drain plugs this way to change the oil. Really important to keep the level to full on these, and keep the oil changed often, no filter and they only hold 2 quarts, non detergent type is advisable if you can get it, it allows the contaminants to settle to the sump and not be suspended in the oil like modern detergent oils do. Sounds, like a 7A blade on there if it's 12'-0" wide. See if you can find the serial number off it, it will be helpful to have.
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