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What serial number is it, see if you can find the tag above the left final drive housing on the rear, or on the left side of the engine closer to the operators seat. If the undercarriage measures up to be in good shape, sprockets not loose on the dead axle, ( pry on it with a bar to see if the sprocket has any play ), check the final drive compartments, note any significant metal, you can use a magnet to see if anything turns up at the bottom of the housing, check the condition and type of clutch, late series 3T and up have an oil clutch, notable improvement over older ones that have a dry clutch, which need replacing sooner, either or both are tough. If it has a starting engine on it, you want to check that out thorougly, some things you will want to know about them that are very important, they are great for cold weather starting. You also might want to check the engine for any freeze cracks or breaks, if in a cold climate, check the coolant level, see if it holds at full level. You might get away with some good penetrating oil like free all, or Kroil, into the cylinders, if not stuck too tight, but if there is standing water on top of the piston(s), you'll need something that will displace it and soak to the rings. I've got one of these soaking right now, but I'm going to pull the heads, its' stuck tight, was a good running motor, so it must have been tight tolerances and moisture,+ combsution residue, soot, add water and that will do it. Although more work, I figure I'll clean up the bores, and get any abrasive material out of there, would hate to ruin the liners, is some extra work, but at least it's done right. Assuming it is an older series 3T, 17A, and like you said, the U/C is in good shape, that alone makes it a shame to cut up for scrap, might take some work, but that motor can be unstuck, is nowwhere near the cost of new tracks, rollers etc., these were very reliable, lot of them built, so parts are out there, 2 websites / oganizations supporting the antique Caterpillar machinery here is one, the other is posted. If it is close by it should not be cost prohibitive to get onto a trailer, it would weigh about 33,000 lbs., once at home, an articulate mechanic could get it running without spending thousands if it was a good runner before it sat,if it tossed a rod or something, then the cost will be more. They look a lot more intimidating than they are to work on, and there are good people on these websites who offer sound advise if you need it during your repairs. Link
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