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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

JD 1010 crawler-hard to start

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Brad T

02-12-2006 09:29:15




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Greetings- I recently purchased a 1010 dozer. Unit runs smooth and powerful with no smoke when warmed up but is hard starting. This unit has a factory primer pump on the dash that somebody has disconnected. I want to hook it back up-does the "fuel" end go to the fuel filter outlet side? Can I rebuild this plunger with hardware store o'rings? The glow plugs are getting power when the key is turned backwards but I need to pull them out and check if each one is working. I want to know if it is worth pulling the injector nozzles and turbulence chambers and cleaning them up. Before I do I want to know where I can get parts. Any good supply besides John Deere dealership? I have a full set of manuals-parts and service-so I can see what is there and understand it for the most part, I just haven't been there and am looking for insight before I dive in. The manual shows how to time the injector pump. An out of time pump could cause hard starting and some uneven running when cold? Where can I get the "sight window" to do this? Thanks - Brad T 417-207-3810

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Lavoy

02-12-2006 16:24:05




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 Re: JD 1010 crawler-hard to start in reply to Brad T, 02-12-2006 09:29:15  
I would be willing to bet that you have one or more glow plugs not working. An otherwise normal 1010 that has all the glow plugs working will start in almost any temp. I have personally started them in the single digits below zero without a tank heater. No I normally would not do this without plugging them in, but odd circumstances do arise.
Also remember the glow plug time for very cold temps is up to 2 minutes, and 3-4 strokes of primer while glow plugging. Glow plug time for a cold engine in the middle of Summer is 30 seconds.
Lavoy

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jdemaris

02-12-2006 10:32:49




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 Re: JD 1010 crawler-hard to start in reply to Brad T, 02-12-2006 09:29:15  
The primer-pump gets its fuel from a tee-fitting that's fastened to the sediment bowl assembly where fuel comes from the tank - i.e. the primer gets the fuel before it passes through the sediment bowl. Deere used several different makes of primers - Kohler and Pierce, so parts differ. If you can find o-rings to fit, it'll be fine as long as the check valve is functional. The primer is very important for cold starting on 1010 and 2010 diesels. If you want to check the glow plugs, just hook and amp-meter in line with each one when engergized. Each one will draw current when working, if no current - no d*mn good. In reference to the injector nozzles and precombustion chambers, fooling around with them probably won't make ANY difference in starting if it is now running okay once warm. If the present injectors are worn, and chambers dirty, and you work on them, you might eliminate some smoke and get a little more power, but that's about it. I've worked on 1010s with injectors that barely atomized fuel at all, but replacing them had NO affect on cold starting. You need to ascertain the age and serial number of the crawler, there were many different injectors used. The early ones became unavailable back in the 70s and could not be serviced. They can be updated, however - but with many - they can be taken apart, cleaned and lapped, and made to work okay. Early 1010s have the gear-shifter in the dashboard - up to ser. # 21900. Pump timing and fuel delivery at cranking speed have a big effect on cold starting. The latter though - cranking fuel delivery can be offset by a good working hand-primer. The plastic timing window can be bought from any good diesel dealer or maybe still at Deere (not sure about that anymore). Part #13366 with Deere, or Stanadyne/Roosamaster. Before you try to mess with the pump, you have to find out what it is. Deere had several updates for 1010 and 2010 pumps, so you can't just go by the serial number. You need the tag number off the pump and a visual inspection of the advance-piston area. Some have load-advance, some centrifugal advance, some have a torque-screw - and you need to know all this. It could be a DBGVC429-1AJ, DBGVC429-3A or DBGVC429-1DH. Some of the early pumps had timing-advance conversion kits put on them (Deere part # AT16228T). Generally speaking, the static advance greatly affects cold starting. If you find that loosening and rotating the pump a bit (when not running), one way or the other, makes it start better - fine - do it and leave it. We had to do it sometimes with brand-new machines. The advance will mostly affect higher RPMs and the engine will break-up, skip, and smoke if it's too retarded.

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smilie

02-12-2006 10:01:27




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 Re: JD 1010 crawler-hard to start in reply to Brad T, 02-12-2006 09:29:15  
be careful using hardware store o-rings in your fuel system. some rubber compounds don't hold up to exposure to petroleum products and can break down rapidly, gumming up your system. for the price of a few o-rings, you'd be better off getting parts from your j-d dealer that are designed for that purpose.



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j fleischman

02-12-2006 09:49:13




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 Re: JD 1010 crawler-hard to start in reply to Brad T, 02-12-2006 09:29:15  
You should be able to check the glow plugs without pulling them out. Just disconnect the wire from each and put a test light from the plug terminal to the battery. The light should light if they are good. My friend has a 1010 and if it runs strong don't mess with the timing, as he had to straighten it out later. He did say the primer made a big difference but I don't remember which end goes where.

Jim

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Johnbob

02-12-2006 14:02:36




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 Re: JD 1010 crawler-hard to start in reply to j fleischman, 02-12-2006 09:49:13  
They are knowen to be hard to start.The diesel ones that I have owned are hard to start in the summer,but in the winter just forget trying to start with out help.



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