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First, time the camshaft, using the timing gear marks. Then, time the pump based on the flywheel marks. (#1 IS at TDC when the flywheel mark is TDC, right?) If you had pulled the pump off, without having the timing gear and crankshaft marks exposed, that is how you would have done it, right? You would not have seen the gear marks, so you would not be worried about them. I can not say absolutely for sure that the marks are correct, but likely, they are. It is NOT UNCOMMON for #1 piston NOT to be at TDC when the marks on the timing gears are aligned, especially on 4-cylinder engines. I suspect they find a "neutral point", where no valves are opening or closing, and make the timing marks there. That way, it is easy to put the timing gear on with the marks lined up, without the camshaft trying to rotate forward or backward on it's own, because of a cam follower being on the "slope" of a cam. I can't say that is absolutely the case with THIS engine, as I don't have one apart at the moment to confirm this, but like I said, I can tell you that it IS common for #1 NOT to be at TDC when the timing gear marks are aligned on lots of engines. To get a pretty close idea, lacking further cam "specs", after aligning the timing gear marks, rotate the crankshaft to # 1 TDC. It will just have completed the compression stroke, and BOTH valves should be closed. As you are rotating the crankshaft to that postion (#1 TDC), watch the valves on cylinder #4. As #1 is coming up on TDC, the #4 exhaust valve will be finishing closing, and the #4 intake valve will be starting to open. Lacking further cam specs, this will pretty closely confirm whether or not the cam timing is correct. If you are not sure, turn the crankshaft exactly two revolutions, and watch during the last 1/2 turn, as the #4 exhaust valve opens, closes, and the intake is opening.
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