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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

HD4 AC Track tightening help tricky

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Mike Hamilton

04-29-2006 20:40:35




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Hi guys, between the JCB and the HD4, I've got my hands full.

On the HD4, I've had some advice before and tried it out, here is the thing I need to know.

1) Is it more likely that the Sliders are siezed or that the adjuster nut is siezed, I would like to put the emphasis on one or the other.

2) Should I be worried about the sliders for the Yoke? are they normally siezed, they look like they could easily rust and sieze, and I don't know if the adjuster screw easily overcomes the slider or if the slider is something that normally is trouble.

3)Once free, should I have any trouble compressing the Big spring? I mean I have a 48" wrench so, just wondering if it will still take a lot of torque to adjust once the threads and sliders are free.

4) should the adjustment be made with the track fully elevated, I would guess yes but don't know for sure.

5) with the 48" wrench I can only barely move the adjuster... I can barely moved it, I'm gonna try the torches tomorrow but could use some help in deciding to heat the adjuster nut on the yoke or the slider block... sledge??? I don't know.


JD indicated that the nuts are usually stripped at the end of the hex shaft, they are not in this case.

Thanks Mike

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Dale(MO)

04-30-2006 07:48:48




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 Re: HD4 AC Track tightening help tricky in reply to Mike Hamilton, 04-29-2006 20:40:35  
Mike,
I assume the nut you are referring to is the lock collar (with two bolts going through to the yoke). You must loosen those bolts to take the lock pressure off the adjuster. If you use heat, use it on the yoke, where the adjuster goes through it.

As far as setting the adjustment of the tracks: park on level, flat ground, with a track pin centered over the top roller. Lay a straight edge across the top of the track. When you have about 11/2" of slack (measuring from the bottom of the straight edge to the top of the grouser) in the lowest point, you are tight enough. You then retighten the bolts on the lock collar. You don"t want them any tighter, or you will be tearing things up (idlers, finals, etc.). The "big spring" is there for shock absorption only, not to be compressed during adjustment.

Hope this helps,
Dale(MO)

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Mike Hamilton

04-30-2006 09:33:30




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 Dale... HD4 AC Track tightening help tricky in reply to Dale(MO), 04-30-2006 07:48:48  
Hi Dale, this helps... BUT, I'm having trouble understanding why it's so hard to turn the adjustment rod...

I have losened the lock nut, ..

1) Do you feel that the adjuster is liklely siezed inside the yoke OR 2)is it also likely that the slider mechanism is siezed in the fron area. 3) should I elevate the machine so the tracks are off the ground totally just to get the adjustment started>

right now I cant turn the adjuster rod at all, last time I snapped a 1 1/2 " wrench, the book shows the adjustment being done with a small cresent wrench (yea sure ha ha)...

Comments on WHERE the seizure is taking place? I did turn the adjuster about 30 degrees , but the lock plate turned with it and bottomed out at the frame, maybe it's seized on the lock nut itself and that's all... I Cant move it, just want to know if it is likely that the front slider is rusted tight or not...

Thanks

Mike ps all info helps...thanks again

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