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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

AC653 Steering Clutch Removal

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WRE

06-26-2006 15:59:31




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Allright, after patching a radiator and rewiring the electrical system, I'm ready to start the steering clutch work. My dozer only pulls on the left track and it will not disengage. So I begin the teardown. Turns out the left clutch lever was only missing a pin. Great, this is going to be easy. Opened up the right side, not so lucky this time. I am able to shake the entire clutch assembly around in the housing. It appears not to have a bearing were it mates with the track assembly (final drive?). Does anybody know what I'm seeing here? How bad is this going to be?

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jdemaris

06-27-2006 08:45:54




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to WRE, 06-26-2006 15:59:31  
I don't know exactly what you're seeing - but this is what's in there. The entire clutch pack - consisting of a three-fingered pressure plate disks and drum is bolted together with six long bolts and nuts. They are prone to breakage, escpecially if they are 5/16" instead of 3/8". This assembly fastens towards the outside of the machine via bolts to the flange on the final-drive top shaft. This flange is part of the final-drive and is bearing mounted. So, if it is the flange moving back and forth, you've got final-drove problems. If the clutch-pack itself is falling apart - then theere are bolts broken or loose. On the other side of the clutch pack - that attaches to the transmission drive from the ring-gear - it attaches via a splined shaft and is kept from sliding off by a little lock-ring. To remove the clucth pack, you unhook the lock-ring, drive the splined shaft back towards the center of the machine and into the ring gear assembly - and then - on the other side - you remove the flange-bolts that attach the clutch-pack drum to the final-drive input shaft.

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WRE

06-27-2006 11:37:02




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to jdemaris, 06-27-2006 08:45:54  
That makes it much clearer. My manual doesn"t mention taking the bolts loose. It also doesn"t tell about a ring clip either, it talks about removing a pin and sliding the shaft in. I also have read today that the the tracks should be off the ground or roll the machine forward to line the shaft holes up to 12o"clock. What works for you?



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jdemaris

06-27-2006 13:40:12




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to WRE, 06-27-2006 11:37:02  
I had a miserable time with mine. Perhaps my problem is my background of being a Deere mechanic for many years. Most Deere stuff - crawlers that is - you have to pull the final drives off to fix steering clutches - but once off - everything is easy to get at. I heard for years from AC guys that Allis crawlers were much easier to work on. Well - I don't know about that. I suppose though, if I had more experience - and more patience - it would have been easier. Yes - having the tracks up so you can move them makes things much easier - because it helps to line the holes. But - it not absolutely necessary. The access hole from outside the final drive lets you reach in with a socket wrench and hold one end of the bolts - and there are six as I recall - that hold the final-drive input shaft flange to the clutch-pack drum. It is possible though, to access the bolt heads from inside also. In regard to the "pin", or "lock pin", well . . . it IS a pin attached to a round spring-loaded clip. It's d*mn near impossible to see and almost as hard to get to - to pry off. I pulled mine off with an o-ring pick. One thing I learned the hard way. When you put things back together - put the clip on the clutch assembly before dropping it back down into the crawler - but turned so the pin has not dropped into the locking hole. This may not make sense to you now, but it will later. Then, after dropping the clutch pack back into place, you can reach in with a long screwdriver or equivalent - and gently nudge the clip to turn a bit until it drops in and locks. The first time I tried to put my clutch pack in - I figured I'd put the pin in last. Well - I couldn't do it. It was too difficult to get it started back on where it belonged - or perhaps I was just plain tired and out of patience. Again, this will make more sense to you when you get into it. Also - don't get p*ssed and over-stretch or break the clip. My Allis dealer wants $40 or $50 for a new one!! It ought to be a 50 cent item. After the little lock pin is out of the way - the little splined stub shaft(there is one on each side) has to be coaxed out of the way by "walking" it back to the center of the machine - inside the ring-gear carrier. And, when putting all backtogether - you have to find a way to make it come out. Allis suggestes hooking a temporary piece of wire to it - and pulling it back out with the wire. Did not work for me. My wire came off and I almost had a stroke. But - I was lucky. I already had the back cover off since I had to replace the ring-gear carrier. Well, the ring-gear carrier - for some reason - has a pipe-plug screwed into it. I removed the pipe plug - and I could see the other end of my problematic stub shaft in there. So, I reached in the hole with a screwdriver and got the shaft to travel back out and into the clutch pack where it belongs. I did both sides and lived through it - but my patience is awful. I wish I still drank - it would have made it easier (or at least it would of seemed that way).

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Dale(MO)

06-27-2006 20:48:59




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to jdemaris, 06-27-2006 13:40:12  
While you have the clutch assembly out, grind a notch about 1/2" X 1/2" in the top of the axle tube the throwout bearing travels on. You can then slide the fork out of the way ( as best as possible) and use a small skinny screwdriver or pick to reach the first detent in the axle. I tried the wire trick, too. I now have an idea of what a heart attack feels like.

I didn't know that the lock clips were still available. I made my own, from a piece of drill rod and a piece of an old bandsaw blade. I don't doubt the price from AGCO - we've butted heads on some before. But, I guess they think they've got you by the short hairs on their almost-obsolete stuff. I'm glad I've got machinery to make my own.

They really are pretty simple, I think. The only Deere I have had a chance to tear into was a 1010 - I almost thought I would have to pull a final to change plugs.LOL Had a broken brake band, had to drop the track and pull the final just to fix it. D*mn near made me want to go to college! Did help me appreciate my old AC.

Dale(MO)

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WRE

06-27-2006 20:46:50




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to jdemaris, 06-27-2006 13:40:12  
Thanks for all the great info. It's always good to here from someone who's "done it" no matter what "it" is. I'm sure I won't be the only one your posting will help. Thanks again.



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WRE

03-27-2007 05:17:28




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 Re: AC653 Steering Clutch Removal in reply to WRE, 06-27-2006 20:46:50  
Sorry to revive an old thread, but it"s getting warm here, time to start back on this thing. Could someone send me a diagram of what the pin removal should look like?



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