|
I'll answer best I can - for what it's worth. #1 - The sleeve deck is often stuck - in the bottom because or rust and sludge, and on top because of the gasket between the deck-plate and the engine block. Just pry carefully and evenly and also try to push from the bottom against the sleeves. A piece of wood works well - like a hammer handle or something. A couple of bottle-jacks putting pressure from the bottom works well while you carefully pry from the top. I've seen many sleeve-decks get cracked when getting removed and pried on. #2 - In regard to new rings - I wouldn't reinstall the old rings because you'll never get them exactly in the same place again - and the wear patterns won't match. Also, check the ring side clearance in the top piston grooves. If it's too much, have the pistons regrooved and install Hastings repair shims. If you really don't want to spend the money for rings, and choose to put the old ones back in - it will run okay - but will not seal as well as it did before. #3 In regard to the manual's advice as it relates to steam-cleaning, aluminum paint, etc. - don't worry about it. Any good gasket sealer is fine, and steam-cleaning is not necessary. But, with the sleeve deck out, make sure the pockets in the block where the sleeve o-rings fit, are clean. Some people choose to use Permatex there with the new o-rings - I've never heard of it causing any trouble. Room temperature self vulcanizing sealant works well too (RTV). In the newer engines (350, 450, 1020, 2020,etc.), Deere's updated kits use three rings, including one that is designed to swell up and seal any gaps as soon as it contacts engine oil. That's the orange color-coded ring. But, there is none available for the 1010 - just the black rings that do NOT swell up. #4 - Main bearings will often lock up and spin when anti-freeze or water gets into them. But - if that had happened, you'd know it. Also, water in the oil for long periods of time causes acid that eats bearings. You might want to pull out one of your upper mains - near where you find the leak, and inspect. Also, remember, early 1010 bearings are different that later 1010s. #5 - Yes, the head bolts are supposed to get torqued again - and yes - it's a pain to do. Last one I did, I waited a year before I got around to it. When I did, nothing was loose - i.e. everything was tight. But, I suspect sometimes it pays to do it. I recently put a head-gasket on my wife's Volkswagen diesel. It's also supposed to be retorqued and I didn't do it. Six months later, the head was leaking coolant. To my surprise, I retorqued - and it needed it - and after I got done - all was fine with no leaks. #6 - I checked with Deere last month and a new deck was around $540 US dollars. In regard to deck or block cracking, I've seen many 1010 and 2010 engines with cracks in the webs between cylinders (in the block). From what I've seen, it never hurts a thing. And - the decks - from what I've seen - they usually get cracked when being removed. I've never seen a gas engine 1010 get a crack that passed antifreeze into the combustion chamber or oil-pan.
|
