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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine.

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John Wood

09-01-2006 18:26:33




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Hi,

I removed the engine from my JD450 and have it stripped down for cleaning etc. Head is reconditioned, flywheel skimmed, injectors serviced, clutch relined etc. I have all new pistons and rings, liners and packing, bearings, bushings etc. and complete gasket kit, new throwout bearing and pilot bearing.

Is there anything I should look out for or do when I start to assemble the parts? I was wondering if there was any quirks to this engine setup? Any other tips that you might be prepared to share.

Thanks in advance, for any help.

John

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John Wood

09-03-2006 12:53:36




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
Hi,

Thanks guys, for your replies. I have printed out your comments and will check them carefully once I start to put it all back together.

Have a number of other priorities show up, so I am a bit behind on what I had hoped to achieve. Still,slow but sure is the name of the game and I don't want to make any mistakes on this one.

Thanks again for all your comments and advice.

J.



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Tom in Central Pa.

09-02-2006 17:37:27




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
Usually the block is pitted where the o-rings (on the bottom of the liners) contact the block, I usually put a fine layer of silicone sealer on the o-rings to be sure the coolant doesn"t leak there.



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jdemaris

09-02-2006 07:01:03




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 One more thing . . . in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
I forgot to mention. One thing that we did as standard procedure on rebuilding those engines is checking and/or resizing the big end of the connecting rods. They get slightly egg-shaped over time and eventually do not hold the rod-bearings properly. It's an easy fix. With the rod-cap installed and rod-bolts torqued to 52 ft. lbs. the hole gets measured for size and roundness. If it's off - the rod and/or cap gets shaved a little, the hole is then closed a bit, and it then gets honed back to proper size. A good machine shop should do the rods for around $15 each.

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MN Scott

09-02-2006 06:52:52




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
When you replace the balancer shaft bushings your going to need a special Deere tool to dimple them so they do not spin in the block.



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jdemaris

09-02-2006 06:49:40




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
New rod-bolts are certainly good insurance. I must admit though, that we rebuilt many of those engines at the several Deere dealerships I worked at - and we NEVER replaced the rod bolts - and I have never seen one break in that particular engine. In regard to the rear-main seal - it can be changed without the Deere service tool - but you're much better off using it. That is, unless you've got a very old engine. The first engines do not have that type of lipped-seal - the setup in the early 350s and 450s is entirely different. A "face" type seal is used. In your engine - it is extremely important that the balancing shafts and bushings are perfect. Since they are not "in frame" servicable items, they often got neglected in quick engine jobs. If they are worn - the engine will not hold good low-RPM oil pressure once it gets good and hot. Also, the engine-oil-pressure regulator valve and seat is often badly hammered and should always be replaced. In regard to the cylinder head - make sure the valve-head recess is correct. I've seen many engine jobs get screwed up because of a bad valve job. Unlike a gas engine, in this paricular diesel - the depth of the valve-head in the head is critical. If the seats and/or valves get ground, they sit lower, and poor cold starting, skipping, and smoking will result. We usually did our own valve work, but I've seen many - that were done out-of-shop get screwed up. Also - the fuel injection pump. If it's a C series pump, and it runs okay, leave it alone. But, if it's a DB or JDB - now's the time to go through it and make sure the drive bushing and seal area is good, and the internal governor dampener is updated or replaced, and also the fuel-pressure regulator stop. If the pump is old and/or has high hours and it IS a DB or JDB, it will crap out soon - and/or the timing-advance won't be working properly. You also mentioned the injectors being serviced. I'm not sure what that means. The pencil injectors are not rebuildable. They can be cleaned up a bit, and reset - but that does not extend their service life. For the most part, they are "throw away and buy new" injectors. Paying to have them serviced is usually a waste of money. I was a Roosamaster bench technician, so I know a little about it. Having them checked and ascertaining that they are in good shape is a different story. If they check out good - then you're fine. But, put new teflon seals on them and make sure you use Never-Seize or equiv. when you put them back in.

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Roy Suomi

09-02-2006 05:49:09




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
If you removed the crankshaft , you will need to borrow a rear seal installer ..The rear seal and wear ring needs to be installed in one step..Don't seperate them and try individual installs...It will probably leak..New rod bolts are optional..I personally reuse them. Make sure you clean cylinder liner o-ring grooves well and lube the rings with soap when installing them..Don't use oil on o-rings..

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Mike M

09-02-2006 04:19:36




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 Re: Re-building JD450, 4-202 diesel engine. in reply to John Wood, 09-01-2006 18:26:33  
I think new rod bolts are a must have item.



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