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jdemaris
09-13-2006 16:15:10
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Re: 1010 advice in reply to slofr8, 09-13-2006 10:56:39
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I think Bob Plumadore's $1000 repair figure is a bit conservative. And, you didn't mention if the crawler has the hydraulic reverser and if the dozer is an outside blade, or an inside blade with adjustments. I like the 1010 crawlers - but I also know what often happens when you go to fix one up. $2500-$3500 is about what they usually go for in my area of New York when they run, but are pretty beat. Inside six-way blade and/or winch adds more to the value. Question is - do you want to get it into reasonably good condition - or - get it just barely usuable and see what happens? My experience with crawlers of that vintage is - what you see is usually the tip of the iceberg. (I was a long-time Deere mechanic). The 1010 is a 45+ year old machine. When it first came out, it had many weak points - many of which got updated over the years - by Deere - with 350 crawler parts (e.g. trans. case, steering-clutch housings, reverser parts, etc.).
I don't know how much is original. But - even used parts are no longer cheap. A good used track could easily cost $300-$500, used bottom rollers $50-$75 each. There are bound to be some broken bolts or other worn parts associated with the track-frames. And, if the track-chains are highly worn - seems the sprockets would be too. And front and top idlers? Then there's the engine. If thee are bubbles in the coolant, something is amiss. I hear of many people spending thousands on engine rebuilds. I'm not saying you need it - but - suppose you pull the head with the intention of just replacing the head and sleeve-deck gasket - what will you do if - once in there - the cylinders look very worn and pistons loose? And, ANY 1010 or 2010, gas or diesel - only has ONE o-ring per sleeve to keep coolant out of the oil. If they're over 20 years old, they're going to fail if not already. So - an "el-cheapo" engine job should include - at the least - new gaskets, sleeve o-rings, rod and main bearings, rings, piston-regrooving and repair shims unless they are in very good shape, valve reseating and new teflon valve seals, etc. If you did all the engine work yourself including the valve-job, you'd still have $400 in the engine. If you opted for new pistons, new sleeve-deck, and sent the head out - you'd easily have $1600- $2000 in the engine.
Then, say you pull the final-drive to inspect and repair the stripped and broken bolts. Once in there, and you see worn and/or oily parts - it would be silly not to go further and do things right. Again - loose final drive bearings, steering clutches, brake band, ring-gear-carrier, seals, etc. - could easily run $200-$400 per side and sometimes a lot more if you find anything broken. I'm not trying to scare you, nor am I trying to disuade you. But, in my experience, crawlers often get pretty beat - and once they get to a certain age, don't see much in thorough repairs. I've bought many 40s-60s crawlers in the $1500 - $3500 price range and have yet to find one that did not need extensive repair to be made reliable. I'm not talking restoration, just putting it into good useful shape so it doesn't break everytime you want to use it. One example - I've got an early gas 1010 crawler - 1960, 1st year made with the gear-shift in dashboard. I got it from the original owner who babied it since new. Probably one of the nicest I've ever seen. It caught fire - and only burned lightly from the hood up. The local Deere dealer gave him a repair estimate of $15,000! So, I bought it for $2000. Got it home, started looking closely, fixed what was needed, and when done - spent another $2500 in parts. Much of that NOT related to the fire. I've also got an Allis Chalmers HD4 diesel with inside 6-way blade that I bought for $3500. It ran, but by the time I got done with it - I had $4500 in parts. And my labor - forget it! I don't even want of think about it. Now, it's a crawler with a good used undercarriage, a newly rebuilt engine, basically all things broken have been fixed, etc. But - I've got $8000 into it not counting MANY hours of labor and hours/days/weeks searching for parts. I wonder if I might of done better buying a well-cared-for, nice condition $9000 - $10,000 crawler instead? I did have the "fun" doing all the work though, and now - I DO know what I've got. Good luck on your 1010 - I really DO like them.
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