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jdemaris
09-22-2006 17:50:49
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Re: deere 350B reverser weak and squeals in reply to razerface, 09-22-2006 16:53:08
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There usually aren't any shortcuts or easy fixes, and I've never heard of any kits available. When I worked for Deere, there were a few kits for larger hydraulic transmissions - e.g Powershifts, but not for the one used in the 1010s and 350s. Usually, a lot of stuff just gets generally worn out. There are two clutch packs - forward and reverse - and they both have metal parts that get worn beyone usefulness (pistons and drums). Then, there's a part that carries oil to both clutches - a hydraulic "collector" or "manifold" - and it's just about always worn out on a high-hours machine. Then, you've got clutch disks and steels if the old ones are burnt and/or warped, bearings, front hyrdraulic pump gears, etc. In regard to the front seal, when it leaks - it is usually because the shafts in the reverser have gotten loose due to bearing wear. Also, besides the reverser itself - you've got the torsional-isolator assembly on the flywheel that drives the reverser. It MUST be right or it will fly apart and seize the engine. At the very least, you will need new springs. When we sold 350s new and also rented used ones - busted isolators were our #1 repair job. 1010s and early 350s didn't have it and held up fine - but late 350s, Bs, Cs, etc. did have the "bad" isolator that is made up of anchors and separate springs. Deere now sells and update kit if you chose to elimate the old-style unit, but it probably costs a fortune (requires a new flywheel). If you needed all the parts to fix the old isolator - it would probably add up to $600 - $700. And, I assume the update kit for the new style isolator is much higher. In a "best case scenario" you could pull a reverser apart, install bearings where needed, install all new seals, new pump gears (a must) somewhere in the range of $400 in parts. But that would be very rare and parts are very expensive. I would expect, bottom dollar, to spend over $2000 in parts if buying new - and that's being VERY conservative. You could also fix it with the mindset that . . . you just want to install the bare minimum to get it working and will not worry about how many years it will last. With that mindset - I assume you could patch it up and make it work cheaper. But - with all the labor involved - I wouldn't cut too many corners on it.
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