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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Starter/Injector pump problems

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Chip A

11-01-2006 04:01:02




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Help! Jdemaris.
About five months ago I bought an aftermarket starter(your suggestion) (China) (Good Power!!) and I completely rebuilt my JDB injector pump right by the Roosamaster/Stanadyne shop manual that I bought.
All new parts from a diesel parts place in Texas.

Due to unfortunate timing and "other" family obligations I just now got to put my JD450 back together.

First problem...turn the key to start and the starter spins like a mad man. (No injectors in). The problem is when you let off the key, the solonoid will not disengage. It keeps spinning. I had to cut the negative battery cable with cable cutters to get it to stop. Starter wire is on the "S" terminal. I tried it again by bypassing the key and jumped from the battery connection on the starter to the "S" terminal and removed the jumper as soon as it started to spin and it still stayed engaged. Had to disconnect ground again. ????? ?????

Second problem..I"m getting fuel all the way to the injector pump but nothing is coming out the return fitting or going out the injector lines. Took the top of the pump off. Metering valve ,shut off solonoid and everything else seems to be per the book. Am I missing something very obvious?????

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jdemaris

11-01-2006 06:14:24




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to Chip A, 11-01-2006 04:01:02  
In regard to the starter - if you remove power from the S terminal and it stays engaged, you've got a starter problem - regardless if it's new or old.

In regard to the fuel injection pump - there are many things that could be wrong - if you had it apart. No insult intended - but like any mechanical device - it has to be put together correctly to work - and I don't know how far you had it apart. I would never install an injection pump without testing it first. All you need to do - is stick the pump in a vise (gently), stick a large scewdriver in the drive end - and turn the pump - while you squirt diesel fuel into the fuel-inlet with an oil-can. That's all it takes to test it. Even at the slow-speed you'll be turning it by hand, and the low-tech method of squirting fuel into it - a pump that is working correctly will prime itself and pump fuel. If it doesn't - you fix it before installing it. If it's a clockwise pump - all internals must be set for clockwise. And, if counter-clockwise, the opposite. In regard to the pump - I cannot cover all the possibilities - but - is the solenoid swing-arm adjusted correctly where is contacts the metering valve? If you didn't change it, it should be fine. Do you have the low-pressure transfer-pump section assembled correctly - spring-loaded blades installed, liner ring pointing in the correct rotation direction (it has arrows on it), cam ring pointing in correct rotation direction (again, arrows on it), delivery valve is not stuck and you've installed the delivery valve stop correctly? To be very simplistic here - fuel enters the transfer pump section (with the spring loaded blades are). From there - it travels to the metering valve port. Assuming the valve is opening - the fuel is then delivered to the high-pressure pump plungers. They get activated by the rotation of the cam ring. If all that is working - you should be getting fuel.

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Chip A

11-01-2006 11:27:26




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to jdemaris, 11-01-2006 06:14:24  
No insult taken when it comes to mechanical stuff. I know from wence thy comist.!!!!I wish I could tell you that I did bench test it first, but I wasn't aware of the test you just told me how to do. That said, I change the end plate, inlet filter screen, metering valve, all new low pressure pump vanes, all new seals and o-rings, pilot tube and bushings. The case was put into our ultrasound cleaning tank at work and I was very careful to reassemble paying close attention to CW/CCW rotation. My thought now is to take it back out of the machine and recheck the metering valve et el. I did not change any of the adjustments. I did however check the roller to roller measurement against the stanadyne spec sheet. It was fine. When I bought the overhaul kit and the other goodies from the Diesel Shop in Texas, I also bought the specific shop manual for that JDB pump and the timing card to scribe the new timing line to the correct line. I theory it should have pumped like a mother.But, I guess it's back to the drawing board.

On the starter, that should be a replaceable solonoid? YES? NO? I know after several attempts that once its spinning, if you break the ground it will disengage. You can then reconnect the ground and it will not engage again until you jump it again. Too bad..It was just installed and on it's maiden run.....


Thanks once again for your help Sir.

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jdemaris

11-01-2006 11:56:21




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to Chip A, 11-01-2006 11:27:26  
With starters - I've had that happen many times - with US Delco stuff, Chinese stuff, used and new. It is possible that after a few tries - it will fix itself - and maybe not. I could explain to you the various ways this can happen with a genuine Delco - I'm not sure about the Chinese stuff. I've got several Chinese gear-redution starters and they've been great. My 6.2 Chevy diesels and my 6.9 ad 7.3 Ford IH diesels all have them. $85 brand new - that's one heck of a deal. I've never had to fix one yet - but . . . I asked about future part's availability. I was told - that at least with the Chinese brand I have - that Delco parts will fit. Seems most - if not all of these Chinese starters are clones of Delco or Nippodenso starters. With your pump - sounds like you did a very thorough job. Hey, I've had lots of stuff that did not work right the first time. It's likely that just one little thing is wrong - but that is all it takes. Best just pull it apart and check very carefully - and test it before you put it back on. I was just talking to a farmer that bought a "factory rebuilt" pump and it would not pump any fuel. So, after taking it back off, and mailing it back, and waiting a week , he got a replacement and an apology - but no money for his time wasted. Seems even the experts screw up sometimes. A few questions. #1 you are sure the new metering valve is the same style and size as the old one? They come in various "fits" and are usually color-coded or shape-coded. You can usually tell by the feel if it's right. #2 are you sure the delivery valve is free? #3 did you have the rotor completely out of the head when you were cleaning? And, for what it is worth - whenever I assembly a pump, I use a mix of 50% diesel and 50% motor oil for assembly. Seems to help it pick up it's prime a little faster that way.

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Chip A

11-01-2006 12:38:48




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to jdemaris, 11-01-2006 11:56:21  
After reading your recent post JD, I'm more convinced that I should take it back out of the machine and take a look see. I really like the idea of the 50/50 mix on reassembly. All I did was mist the parts with diesel fuel for reassembly.

To answer your questions, #1. I had the new and old metering valve side by each just to make sure they are identical. I still have all of the old parts so I'll be checking them again. #2. The delivery valve WAS free. God only knows about now. I'll be checking that too. 3. Everything was out. I put in a new modified weight retainer and governing spool. What I did NOT do is back off the adjustments on the spring plates that adjust the rollers. I also did not adjust the automatic advance. Those settings are the original. The new end plate is also a modified type that is supposed to aid in low pressure pickup.

I'm positive it will be some small pain in the rear thing just because it knows my hands are old and the weather is getting colder. LOL.

Thanks again.. Chip

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jdemaris

11-01-2006 12:50:36




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to Chip A, 11-01-2006 12:38:48  
As long as the delivery valve is not stuck, and the two high-pressure plungers in the rotor are not stuck- I'd suspect the end-plate you installed. Changing end plates can cause bad probems if you're not real careful. So can mis-matching - end-plate with wear plate goes with spring-loaded vanes, and end-plate with no wear plate goes with one-piece no-spring vanes. When I do it - I install the end-plate with the screws loose - with the pump still apart - and then turn the rotor in the head - and keep checking as I tighten those four screws. With some, I find that things start to bind as you tighten past a certain torque. Also - hopefully the internals in the end-cap are correct - like the low fuel-pressure regulator and stop? Years ago, Roosamaster had a lot of trouble with them. It had a little rubber-plug in the end that would blow out. It was updated with a little steel bushing-comes in the seal kit.

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Chip A

11-01-2006 14:30:42




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 Re: Did you test the pump first? in reply to jdemaris, 11-01-2006 12:50:36  
JD...The strangest thing happened on my way home from work tonight. I looked towards New York State and a very large black cloud was coming towards my house. LOL. I really do understand what you mean. Any little thing at all can spell trouble.

On the General Electric T700-701C turbines I work on, there is what is known as an HMU.. Short for Hydro Mechanical Unit. Basically a computer/electronic controlled fuel delivery system with hundreds of moving parts. It has to be so precise that if anything goes wrong with the power settings the HMU has to go back to the manufacturer for service or adjustment. Mine will be something like the rubber plug stuck.

On the way home and after reading your last post, I am going to tear down the pump again and go thru each step again. New gaskets are cheap.Pumps aren"t. And the more I think about that 50/50 mix, the more I like it. Count your blessings that I don"t live just down the road from you. You"d have company for supper tonight. LOL. Chip

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