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I went through this on one of my D7's, and exactly as you describe it, was the solution. The serviceman's reference book does not locate #1 cylinder or at least the edition I had at the time. It's the one closest to the radiator. I put a cork in the spark plug hole and when it came up on the compression stroke, I was watching the flywheel, in my case, it's just a tick or hatch mark, no letters, then as you say, made sure the mag was gaining tension to release a spark. I had been firing it off in my hand and checking the timing of it, although this procedure was successful for either an Eisemann or a Bosch, forget now, the Wico which was just rebuilt was still throwing me off, so I went and found one of the other 2 and that is how I finally figured the timing out, but it should work the same with a Wico, not sure what happened with mine. That coupling is in a tight spot and I noticed the same thing, it had to be just right for it to bolt up right and everything in correct time. I won't soon forget that, was a learning experience. I'll add to this: These 2 cylinder vertical starting engines require solid conductor wires, also been told to avoid champion spark plugs, keep your oil clean and always check for gas contamination, non detergent oil is best, old splash type system, don't run too long without the diesel spinning, best to let it run out of fuel or drain the bowl to be sure no gas gets into the crankcase oil and thins it out, ( something with these Zenith carbs, and if you leave the fuel petcock on, it will fill the crankcase ) also fuel system, the tanks are prone to rust that clogs the works, they like fuel and spark to run good. The tanks can be cleaned by using crushed stone ans sloshing around, some people clean em up and line them, also use a high strainer inside the tank so it rises well above the sediment line, check the secondary strainer where the fuel line connect to the carburetor, and keep it clean. Carb rebuild kits are available from Zenith fuel systems and there is not much to them, however, I still don't know what causes them to leak gas down. The crank case sump drains for the oil, both of them, are in an awful spot, that is hard to get to being so close to the frame, I have found it easier to wash the track down, soak everything down to avoid dust that could blow in, open the inspection cover, use a drill pump to suck the oil out and clean up with some solvent and pat down with a rag being careful about lint, then put the cover back on and re-fill. Don't use a drill pump for anything flammable like fuel or solvent.
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