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NC wayne
04-12-2007 19:29:07
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Re: Detroit 53 rotation in reply to uncle, 04-11-2007 20:29:13
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As another post said there are 8 different configurations and because the engines can be reconfigured the serial number isn't always right. In my experience though most people don't go through the expense of tearing one down far enough to change the rotation when they can simply rebuild the old one for not alot more money. That said check the serial numbers on your engine and on the one your looking at. There will be four digits to begin with (yyyy) followed by a dash and four more digits (yyyy-yyyy) The number you need to check for is the fifth digit (yyyy-1yyyy). The rotation is stated facing the flywheel end of the engine. #1= LA or CW rotation,blower and cam on left side--#2=LB or CW rotation, blower on right cam on left--#3=LC or CW rotation blower and cam on right--#4=LD or CW rotation, blower onright cam on left--#5=RA or CCW rotation, blower and cam on left--#6= RB or CCW rotation, blower left cam on right--#7= RC or CCW rotation, blower and cam on right--8= RD or CCW rotation, blower on right cam on left----- -You can tell which side the cam is on inside the engine because it'll be on the opposite side from the exhaust. Looking at the pic in the lube manual the engine in that machine has the blower on the left side and the exhaust on the right. This narrows it down to either a #1 LA or #5 RA. The best way to tell from there would be to pull the starter and kick it over and see which way it's gonna turn the engine. As for changing the rotation it gets pretty involved even going from two with the same basic configuration but different rotations(ie RA and LA). Just going from memory here but I know at a minimum you have to pull the oil pan, head, flywheel housing, and front cover to gain access to the cam, idler gear, and balance shaft to swap their positions. Then, I believe, you also have to change the oil pump to allow for the reverse rotation. In other words it's pretty involved just to change direction on two similar engines. If you go beyond that you get into swapping ends with the block, changing plugged ports in the block, etc etc etc, in other words a real major undertaking So if your gonna have to tear the engine down that far and spend the time and money for all the gasket kits, etc just to change the rotation in a used engine, then in the long run you'd be money ahead to spend a little more and go ahead and have your old one rebuilt. But that's just my opinion and in my case the only real expense would be the parts since I already have the special tooling needed and I'd be doing all my own work so there be no labor charges involved except for whatever I had to spend with the machine shop..... . That said check the serial numbers and the starter rotation and see what you find, and as I've said before feel free to email me if you have any other questions. Wayne
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