Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Bob/Ont.... this ones for you

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
NothinbutaCAT!!

04-12-2007 18:16:33




Report to Moderator

Ok i got the aspirator sucking pretty good, had to fabricate alittle piece for inside the pipe. The cyclones are not melted. so now how do i keep the old gal cool? its good in the cool weather, but if its plus 20 C or higher, it gets hot and fast!




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Bob/Ont

04-12-2007 21:09:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to NothinbutaCAT!!, 04-12-2007 18:16:33  
email if you like.
Later Bob



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob/Ont

04-12-2007 21:00:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to NothinbutaCAT!!, 04-12-2007 18:16:33  
Glad to hear that. Work her tomorrow untill she is up to temp and then carefully try to feel the temp of the botton pipe going into the water pump from rad and the one going out to the rad. Just a quick touch so you don't burn yourself. If you can feel a difference in temp there is a problem with the rad cooling. (Need an infared thermometer to be sure) Are you sure the thermostats are in there? If they are not too much coolant will go through the big bypass tube across the front of engine and not through the rad. Come on back with what you find and we will talk more about this tomorrow night.
Later Bob

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
NothinbutaCAT!!

04-13-2007 18:21:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to Bob/Ont, 04-12-2007 21:00:22  
Bob, I have checked everything 10 times over, it had a new rad put in it about 2 years ago, new theromstats a few months ago... the whole 9 yards. I just can't figure this old cow out, it was about plus 14 here today and she got piping hot after an hour of working her pretty hard ripping and stripping frozen ground in the gravel pit. The rad isn't pressurizing or anything so i recon the heads are fine, and the torque doesn't run overly warm either..... . its got me stumped big time. I know a contractor around here that told me he would never again buy a K because it just runs too hot and he couldn't keep it cool no matter what he tried. Have you ever heard of anything like this about K's?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob/Ont

04-14-2007 18:13:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to NothinbutaCAT!!, 04-13-2007 18:21:28  
No they worked alright as far as I am concerned. Sounds to me like the problem was reason you got the chance to buy that tractor. Also sounds to me like all the easy stuff has been checked and or already done. Also sounds like something that might have been done wrong during a previous repair. I have heard of a temp gauge being installed with too long of a line and the surplus been wound up in a loop near the turbo. The coolant didn't over heat but the turbo over heated the eather in the line and gave a bad reading. Might make sure the temp line is tied to the glow plug loom and away from exh. That was a real odd ball thing and hard to find. It would be real nice to know the actual top and bottom rad temp. If you know anyone with an infared thermometer, please find this out for me. Should be 185 to 190 top and 10 to 15 deg cooler at the bottom. Less difference is clogged externally and more difference is clogged internally. Shouldn't be your problem with the fairly new rad. I have seen one D8 engine that had too much rad flush put into it and the water pump impeller had holes eaten through it and when we pulled the liners there was rust and scale half way up them in the waterjacket. You could drain the coolant and take one of the two side covers off the block. The cast iron ones and see into the water jacket to make sure it's clean. Your engine is likely old enough to have a chipped up cam shaft too if original, bad lobes will make it run hot but you should see a lot of cracks in the manifold. The last thing to check would be the fuel pump timing. You need to take the pump off and check it with a Fixture. Timing shouldn't have gotten off unless someone was doing a rebuild and got into the front cover and gears, not just an inframe. I don't think the power has been jacked up or you would likely have torque over heating too. Does it start good, idle clean and work hard without a lot of black smoke?
Later Bob

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
NothinbutaCAT!!

04-15-2007 14:00:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to Bob/Ont, 04-14-2007 18:13:22  
Thanks for the reply Bob, I am begining to think that maybe it is out of time alittle bit. The previous owner rebuilt the engine, it has about 1000 hours on it now. it has alittle bit of black smoke at low idle, not alot but some. It also smokes some when you are just walking it somewhere at full idle, but when you start working it and it gets hot the smoke kind of goes away. I think the engine is alot noisier than it should be as well, you can really hear it clanging away inside the top end. So how do i check the timing? and how do i correct it?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob/Ont

04-15-2007 20:22:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: Bob/Ont.... this ones for you in reply to NothinbutaCAT!!, 04-15-2007 14:00:36  
The timing is set with a Fixture that position's the Offset drive tang on the shaft in the housing that drives the pump. The gear on the end of the shaft is on a taper. To check the timing you need to remove the fuel injection pump from the drive housing. The offset tang allows you to take pump off and put it back on with out loseing the correct timing, it will only go back on as it came off. Then turn the engine over untill you are on TDC#1(#6 valves rocking #1 valves closed) Under the floor plates there is a square plate on top of the flywheel housing with a pointer under it. The flywheel is marked for #1 tdc. At this point the fixture should slide onto the drive tang and the flange come up flush to the mounting surface accepting the locating dowels. If the flange will not go onto the dowels you need to remove a cover at the front of shaft, loosen the nut and pull the gear off the taper. Rotate the shaft untill the fixture goes on flush to mounting and retighten the nut on the shaft. In view of the fact the engine has been worked on recently Checking the timing would be worth doing now. If any of the front gears where removed and the pump gear got free of the crank it would lose the timing. You can take gears out and put them back but need to mark the gears. If the pump cam shaft gets free it will turn on it's own because of the springs inside of it. If you don't understand this and do work on the timing gears the correct timing will be lost. The fixture costs almost $200, might be a good job to hire done. I will look up the corect fixture # so you can be sure the job is done right. If you get tool and do it you had better email me.
Later Bob

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy