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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Track rail buildup

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JD in da UP

05-03-2007 04:36:43




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I've got a 420C with well worn tracks, re pinned and bushed 5 years ago. Could anybody give me some advice about building up rails and what materials and methods to use if it's a good idea at all. Thanks




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JD in da UP

05-09-2007 05:00:58




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
Thanks for all the input. John



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Bowden

05-04-2007 16:59:01




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
I have always used 7018. My local cat dealer used a submeraged arc process. it was old 40 years ago it is a wire weld with a flux powder put on .It has been several years since I did any track build up.



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135 Fan

05-04-2007 16:00:47




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
Stoody build up may be work hardening rod. Stoody is the largest hardfacing manufacturer. Build up rod is made specifically for building up rollers and idlers etc. It is also used prior to putting hardfacing on to build things up. Most hardfacing can only be deposited a maximum of 2 layers to prevent spalling. Build up can be used for multiple layers. It is softer than hardfacing and easier to grind. I worked in a shop that specialized in chromium carbide overlay. It takes forever to grind. Dave

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jdemaris

05-04-2007 10:50:41




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
There used to be places all over the country that did it - but it seems most if not all have quit. One place near me - used to be called "Flow-Weld" - told me they quit for several reasons. One being cheap aftermarket parts from places like Berco - and the other reason - the guy claims that most newer crawlers use alloys that don't work with being built up with weld. He had a chart on his wall - with years and companies - showing which crawlers can be, or cannot be welded. I just got done doing my own - track-frames and front idlers - on my Deere 1010 crawler and an Allis Chalmers HD4. I used work-hardening rod - it's somewhat easier to use since it grinds easier than regular hard-surface rod. The worst part isn't the welding - it the grinding and getting things close to the lever or shape you want. When I worked at a Deere dealership - we found the 350 crawlers wore worse than anything else since they have floating track-frames. We often built them up first with low-hydrogen 7018 and then hard-surfaced over that.

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ttman4

05-05-2007 06:33:17




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to jdemaris, 05-04-2007 10:50:41  
So where can a person find the info. about new measurements on various machines? What the build-up height would be built back up to on rails, rollers, idlers, etc?
While back I found a site that gives a little info....like how to figure some of the wear percentages...25%, 50%, etc.

Speaking of rods & wire prices, here in C Oregon yesterday I priced some 50#1/8" 7018 @ $97. 2 mo. ago they was $78. 50# 1/8" 6010 @ $119. 2mo ago $96.
Studie(sp) 35 5/16" @ $12.65/#. 2mo ago $8/#.
Hobart TuffLine 60 hardface wire 30# spool @ $9/#. 2mo ago was $6.80/#

All these prices was supposed to be my down-n-dirty, usual good-boy discount price too.....

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Lavoy

05-03-2007 18:44:24




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
They also used a wire that was called a work hardening wire. It is softer as it is first layed on. Then over time as the rollers smash the weld flat, it gets harder. Local shop up here used to have a rail buildup machine, I think it would have blown a hole right through a 420 link. For the hours you are going to put on any more, you probably will be fine with standard wire.
Lavoy

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135 Fan

05-03-2007 15:27:13




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 Re: Track rail buildup in reply to JD in da UP, 05-03-2007 04:36:43  
I think building up rails used to common on bigger tracks. Stoody made an automatic machine for it. Use stoody or equivelent build up rods or wire. Work on a few at a time so they don't get too hot. Making a copper mold to go around the link will help to get the whole rail built up even right to the edges and the same hight. Hope this helps. Dave



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