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I'll second Bob's point, in the serviceman's reference book, they describe how to check bore and face alignment, especially if the motor has been out of the frame. The corrective measure is to shim the motor at the mounts to adjust the alignment(s) It looks straight forward, you just need the dial indicator tool they show, or something similar to check the dimensions as shown in the illustration, and follow the procedure in the book. The book decribes in detail how to take these measurements and determine correct alignment. That bearing certainly requires grease, if it is not lubed, bearing fails, then you will notice vibration, eventually the bushing on the shaft will oval the driven plate out and believe it or not those woven material drive links will take quite a bit of this before they fail. I currently have one apart due to this, however it was the previous owner who did not grease the bearing. Also the spacers (called washers part# 179-A) that are on each side of the 5 big pins that pass through the drive links, need to be the same on each one, and if I read the diagram correctly there are 4 on the engine side of the driven plate and 3 on the operators side of the driven plate ( large plate that the friction discs clamp onto when the lever is pulled back ). It appears to me that keeping those links in the same plane and checking to make sure bore and face alignment of main flywheel to flywheel clutch assembly is what keeps things balanced in there. The only other thing would be that pilot bearing and bushing, if there is play in there, it would cause vibration, those links are what take the abuse when that big driven plate flops around in there. When it comes apart it can damage the starting engine pinion, and the upper bellhousing, when mine failed, it caused the latch spring on the pinion to come out, check that while you are in there, remember if working on that pinion, the release adjusting screw determines when the pinion releases, so it does not overspeed the starting engine when the diesel fires. Good to note the position of that screw (how many turns) I've yet to do this on mine as well. Only other thing, was for some models of D8's, they issued a service bulletin to change the orientation of the links to being in the push instead of the pull arrangement originally from the factory, supposed to last longer, but I believe it was specific to that model, no others were included if I am correct. I currently have one of these apart, and will be doing the same thing soon, will check face and bore, although the engine has never been out of the frame on this one. All I can think of and do check in on the ACMOC or ACME forums.
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