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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

D6B welds broken and cracks everywere

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U9 U9 CAT

07-14-2007 19:16:55




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I found the right side roller frame but I still have some cracks in the other I also have some cracks in the bevel gear housing right above the belly pan were it bolts up what type welding rods? anyadvice would be helpful. Thanks Mike




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Farmall MD

07-15-2007 15:40:45




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-14-2007 19:16:55  
7018 DC, don't use AC on this job. Also when welding heavy equipment give her a little preheat with the rose bud(to take the "chill" out) About 200 degrees. This helps by not "shocking" the steel so much. Heavy equipment generally uses a tad better quality steel(has a higher carbon content) than the average hot rolled. In fact on modern equipment alot of the steel is a mild "AR plate". Also Mike, I'm sure you know to "V" it out.

That is if Old magnet is correct and no cast iron is there. If cast iron, then I recommend "Nickle 99" This rod does not require preheat. It does help, though, to cover weldment with good heavy fire blankets when done. This will help keep the heat in and cool slow, as I take it the part is too big for burrying in a sand barrel. Doug N

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U9 U9 CAT

07-21-2007 09:15:51




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Farmall MD, 07-15-2007 15:40:45  
No 6011 root pass before the 7018?? Thanks again



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U9 U9 CAT

07-21-2007 09:03:27




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Farmall MD, 07-15-2007 15:40:45  
Thanks now it just needs to stop raining for a day or two Thanks again Mike



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135 Fan

07-15-2007 20:38:48




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Farmall MD, 07-15-2007 15:40:45  
Unless the steel is really thick a propane torch will be sufficient for preheating. Usually all it needs is to take the sweat out of the steel. You will notice when preheating because moisture will appear around the heated area. If no moisture, warm to the touch is sufficient. 7018AC could work if that's all that's available. A good welder will have a DC machine. If a groove is made for full penetration AC7018 will be very close to the stength of DC7018. If the crack in the case originates from a bolt hole, a copper bolt if available could be put in the hole so the threads could be saved. If not the hole may need to be welded up and redrilled and tapped. Dave

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Old Magnet

07-15-2007 12:54:28




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-14-2007 19:16:55  
The D6B has all fabricated steel bevel gear case and frame rails. Very rare to have these units crack. Must have had some horrible abuse. The 7018 (and a good welder) should put it back to right.



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U9 U9 CAT

07-21-2007 09:14:38




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Old Magnet, 07-15-2007 12:54:28  
Yep magnet I thought I was getting a good one I didn't look under the back of the trackor because it had a root plow on it. Well its all broke up roller frames hard bar everthing I've met alot of people as I find parts though I I've become a good welder No 6011 root pass before the 7018?



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Old Magnet

07-21-2007 20:14:28




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-21-2007 09:14:38  
Tough break (bad pun) on the tractor.
I like the penetration ya get with the 6011 root pass but I'll leave it to the advise of better welders than me.



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Dale(MO)

07-22-2007 18:26:31




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Old Magnet, 07-21-2007 20:14:28  
Absolutely! You HAVE to have good penetration, or all the weld in the world won't hold. A 6011 or 6010DC is, as far as I'm concerned, is the ONLY choice for penetration. I have been a pipe welder, off and on, for 20+ years, and you can only get 100% penetration from a 6011 or 6010. After that, I would get all traces of slag off, and use a 7018DC, or (if you can still get them) a 7016AC (AIRCO if possible) to make my cover pass. Just remember, any pin holes in the cover pass is a slag intrusion, and must be ground out completely and redone. If you can see the backside of the weld, make sure that you can see the root pass bead level or sticking out of the crack - that is 100% penetration. If you can get that, and no slag intrusions, the only thing you have to worry about, then, is the strength of the parent metals (what you welded to).

Good luck,
Dale(MO)

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U9 U9 CAT

07-24-2007 07:05:39




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to Dale(MO), 07-22-2007 18:26:31  
Thanks, This is sort of back tracking But on a/c and D/C it"s just the lead swapped? Thanks



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Ebbsspeed

07-24-2007 14:32:39




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-24-2007 07:05:39  
No, lead swapping only changes the polarity on a DC welder. If you've got AC, then lead swapping doesn't make a difference.



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steve n carol

07-15-2007 07:23:59




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 About the cast Iron in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-14-2007 19:16:55  
I agree with the previous comment, There is LOTS of info regarding the welding of cast Iron in these forums, Might I suggest that you do a search on "welding cast iron". One forum poster had a link of projects and tips (pictures galore) on 'how to'...have fun...sl



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135 Fan

07-14-2007 22:49:36




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 Re: D6B welds broken and cracks everywere in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 07-14-2007 19:16:55  
If the roller frames are steel (welded) 7018 is the rod of choice. If old welds are cracked, grind them completely off and start over. You can grind a groove for more penetration and strength. For the bevel gear housing it's probably cast iron which is more difficult to repair. Go to a good welding supply and they can recommend a specialty type rod for your application and possibly a specialty shop who could repair it for you. Dave

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