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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

D7T3 stuck piston

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grayhead

08-19-2007 09:24:41




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can any on tell me the best way to free a stuck piston I have found this beast sitting in a barn the owner says that it ran two years ago.
Ive fired the pony motor it runs very well after cleaning the fuel system and changing the plugs and oil. this model has avery big four cylinder
and do not want to take it apart unless i have to Ser.# 3t1532....? what year? pistons and liners
still avalable? Thanks for any insight

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RAB

08-19-2007 23:01:35




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 Re: D7T3 stuck piston in reply to grayhead, 08-19-2007 09:24:41  
If you have to remove the heads, start with the pot with open exhaust valve. This is most likely the problem area.
Regards, RAB



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Bob plumadore

08-19-2007 19:22:37




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 Re: D7T3 stuck piston in reply to grayhead, 08-19-2007 09:24:41  
I put in a set of liners and one new piston last summer. I cot aftermarket, alos AM spray nozzles and valve grind gasket set. You still have to buy the water directors from yu cat dealer. you can replace the Pistons & liners without pulling the oil pan. it is heavy and th oil pump is mounted in it



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hector gemme

08-19-2007 13:56:58




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 Re: D7T3 stuck piston in reply to grayhead, 08-19-2007 09:24:41  
The best way you removed the eads and clean the pistons top and after you can use w40 or aut.transmission oil or fuel and the parts still available.



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Billy NY

08-19-2007 10:19:07




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 Re: D7T3 stuck piston in reply to grayhead, 08-19-2007 09:24:41  
That is an early 3T, should be an early 1944 model.

The stuck piston, that is a judgement call, reason I say that is, you can't see what caused it to seize up, and you don't want to risk running it with abrasive rust particles in the bore, everyone has a different view on this, as you can remove the injectors spray or pour an industrial penetrating oil in there, like Free-All, Kroil by Kano Labs or whatever floats the boat, everyone has their respective snake oil too ! LOL If their is standing water on top of the piston, makes it real hard for something to penetrate it. Might be just seized a little or jambed up good. I have a 4T that has the exact same problem, going to have to pull the heads and see what is up, the motor was a good running one in that one. In my humble opinion, and it may be a lot more work, pulling the heads and cleaning up the bores or stuck bore is the best thing to do, but I would get the injector tool, and see if penetrating oil will work, might free it up, but the thing I don't like about that is, how do you know you are not causing damage with abrasive materials etc. Also carbon with sulphur, stuck rings, think that can cause corrosion, thers is a lot of different opinions on something like this, but I like to play it safe, especially on something this old. My other D7 has sat idle, but I turn the motor over by hand from the fan with the compression off, then put the lever back to the on position.

Take special care of that starting motor and do not run for long, remember the diesel has to spin to circulate coolant to it, it will overheat rather quickly, they like good spark and clean fuel, splash lube system, keep the oil clean, and make sure you run the fuel out of the carburetor bowl, ( I literally drain mine via a petcock when the main fires ) they can leak down and fill the crankcase, if you even think any gas is in the oil on one of these change the oil before running it, mine filled the crank case with gasoline once, it can happen.

Suprised to hear it is stuck while in the barn, by any chance is the starting engine pinion to the diesel's flywheel engaged, from a mis-start ? You can pry the latches free, although I have heard stories of this making one believe the diesel was stuck, I'd think that the starting engine would not be enough to keep you from turning that motor if it were engaged to the diesel, still never understood that, but figured I'd mention it, don't make sense to me, I have a good working knowledge of these particular components from owning 2 of them, neat old machines, hope to get the other one running again, nothing like that old 4 cylinder barking under a load. Also you have the ACMOC and ACME boards, a great bunch of people within those groups. The bore of the D-8800 shares the same size with other Cat engines, so I'd think Regal or other aftermarket suppliers would still have liners and other parts, they are old, but a lot of them were built, chances are still good to find those parts I'd like to think.

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