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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

master pins

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JPCalhoun

08-22-2007 10:11:05




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I have been restoring a JD450-B. My first dozer project. The master pins had been welded in. I got'em out after much grinding. Now I have to find and replace them. I read here that you should not weld tracks or risk engine damage. Anybody know where I can find some replcement master pins? Tanks all.




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John-Paul

08-23-2007 11:22:44




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 Re: master pins in reply to JPCalhoun, 08-22-2007 10:11:05  
And dont be charging the battery any time soon before the weld either. THe gasses come out when charging (especially if overcharged or hot) and its very explosive. My neighbors best friend has scars on half his face from that! Sparks, plus batt just charged = acid all over half his face. Hes a auto body specialist and he even said he knew better but ya know did it 1000 times before (it only takes once though to be sorry). BEst to just REMOVE the battery honestly. Once you see what a batt can do, they are enough to worry you.

Best of luck.

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jdemaris

08-23-2007 05:42:39




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 Re: master pins in reply to JPCalhoun, 08-22-2007 10:11:05  
Replacement master pins probably won't work anymore. Originally, the older Deere crawlers had master pins with a large head on one end, and a snap ring on the other. Then Deere changed over to a press-fit design which is marked with a small simple in the middle. After a while, Deere stopped making the replacement headed pins. The new, press-fit pins don't work once they've been removed a couple of times since they get too loose. Then, they have to be welded in or the track will fall off.

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JPCalhoun

08-23-2007 06:25:14




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 Re: master pins in reply to jdemaris, 08-23-2007 05:42:39  
So I am going to have to put the old ones back in and weld them in place as they were when I removed them. I kinda figured that might be my only option. Any suggestions on where to find the seal kits for the track adjusters. thanks



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jdemaris

08-23-2007 06:54:44




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 Re: master pins in reply to JPCalhoun, 08-23-2007 06:25:14  
Years ago at the last Deere dealership I worked at, we stocked up on the older and discontinued headed master-pins - and used them on the newer tracks when they got worn. But, I don't think you can get them anymore, so welding in the pin will be necessary. Of, if your track is just a little worn, a standard track pin might work. The new-style master pins (with the dimple mark) are a little bit smaller diameter than the standard pins - so they can be removed. So, a standard pin is slightly larger. Also, some people just weld up the OD on the original pin and make it fit tighter - instead of welding.

In regard to the track-adjuster seals - buy them from Deere. But, figure out what you have first. Most of the older crawlers ought to be converted to use the newer seals. If you buy the original type seal, the adjuster probably won't hold and you'll be pumping grease into it all the time. If your adjuster piston is still original - is uses either an o-ring and backup washer, or a black rubber square sided sealing ring. When the "C" series came out, a hard, semi-clear lipped seal got used and it works much better. To use it on an older piston, you have to remachine the groove.

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JPCalhoun

08-23-2007 11:00:25




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 Re: master pins in reply to jdemaris, 08-23-2007 06:54:44  
I have the old square sided seals. The piston head is in good shape but shaft is rusted solid into the cap. I'm little leary of breaking it loose. I have a manual and it appears to just sit in that cap without a bolt holding it. If that is the case I should be able to get it out don't you think. I like the idea of re-machining for newer seals. Any tips on how to break that sucker loose. I don't want to use a torch to heat it because of the spring.

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jdemaris

08-23-2007 12:50:10




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 Re: master pins in reply to JPCalhoun, 08-23-2007 11:00:25  
I assume what you are calling the "cap" is the cylinder. The rod (piston) that has the seal on it is not held in by anything - except maybe rust. In regard to the spring - it's not attached to any of the adjuster parts except again - maybe by some rust. The spring is a self-contained unit with a long bolt inside of it holding it at certain length. If that bolt breaks - you get other problems like the track being way too tight no matter what you do. That spring and stop-bolt assembly is not supposed to put any tension on track - it is just a shock absorber. You can take the entire track adjuster assembly (piston and cylinder) out to make things easier - but you need to unbolt the cylinder from the front idler assembly.

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JPCalhoun

08-23-2007 13:59:27




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 Re: master pins in reply to jdemaris, 08-23-2007 12:50:10  
Yep, it's rusted solid. This machine has worked in the salt marshes here in the low country so it got a double dose. Thanks for the info.



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135 Fan

08-22-2007 10:55:00




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 Re: master pins in reply to JPCalhoun, 08-22-2007 10:11:05  
You can weld track links. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery so current can't go through the entire machine and put the ground from the welder as close as possible to where you're welding, like on the link you're welding. Use a grinder or wire brush to clean the area for the ground so it doesn't arc and you'll be fine. Tracks are welded all the time for ice lugs and stuff. It is very rare for any problems but taking the battery cable off will give peace of mind. Dave

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JPCalhoun

08-23-2007 06:27:02




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 Re: master pins in reply to 135 Fan, 08-22-2007 10:55:00  
Thanks 135, that's a plan.



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